If it was truly seeded by a hermd flower then it should 100% produce a female seed due to no male chromosomes being present but they will carry a chance to herm again
It’s indoor and only 2 plants both female so good 99% chance it wasn’t stray pollen from a male plant… guess I just gotta hope the herm came on from me giving it a bit of a stressful time
Guess I’ll have to just keep my fingers crossed when I try to pop em later, genetics should be good, and the other plant didn’t herm and doesn’t have any visible seeds and it’s all been the same conditions just one got root rot and the other didn’t so I’m hoping that’s what caused it
I think it not that everyone is trying to be a complete dick. For example, a lot of the time I respond to something in text it is extremely hard for me to get the tone right. Idk what you’ve posted/asked about but for things like a trellis net I could easily see someone being like “hey, next time I’d recommend building your own net with pvc and string so you can just cut the net out and it only costs like 20 cents in string to reset” or something that could easily come off as more negative as “I’d recommend putting in more fans for air movement rather than rely on a dehumidifier to keep humidity in check, also having lots of fresh air brought in if you don’t have co2 supplementation could be beneficial”
I think generally the range is between 68 and 72 for ideal, can usually make it to 75 without much issue but wouldn’t wanna push past that without something to keep root rot at bay
Bc I started with growing weed in coco and that made me realize that I really just like to take care of plants, so I just used all the same stuff… I enjoy the process of growing in coco but with lots of plants and no auto watering it does get a bit busy lol, I also have other plants in DWC… my s/o was telling me like “you don’t need the air stones for green onions, they’re super easy to grow” and my response was “yes, but look at how happy they look :)”
I have this, I don’t have soil that I’m not already using in my outdoor beds that are on a drip system or in the middle of a greenhouse that I’m in the middle of building and don’t wanna put anything in til it’s all up… just a lot of things to do and not a lotta money to do it with lol
I’ve beaten the game at least 15 times, still haven’t explored at least 60% of caelid… idk what it is about that place but every time I’m there I just wanna get tf out… ik this is true with everything in the game, but damn does everything wanna kill you out there. Maybe it’s that a lot of the enemies in the area are not humanoid that makes them a lot more difficult to fight for me
Ok, and granddaddy purp and northern lights are also the same plant, yet have different terpene and cannabinoid profile. When I say hemp I am referring to the hemp that is used in hemp fibers and what they used for making CBD creams for years. In other words, industrial hemp
Ok, so for starters you yourself even stated that what you said in your comment could very well be wrong, and my intention was simply to correct an incorrect statement and provide a tiny bit of education. Now, if you or anyone else reading this is interested in learning a bit more about the scientific background of the plant as well as some more scientifically accurate terminology, please read on. This is a topic that I'm incredibly knowledgeable about and I really enjoy teaching people who also share a common interest or passion. In the words of a wise mine who went by the name of Ol Dirty Bastard, I'm about to "drop science like girls be droppin' babies."
Most of this seems plausible and agreeable, however is CBN(a?) not just degraded THCa? I’ve read from a plethora of sources that as the plant matures and trichomes turn amber that is the THCa degrading in to CBN.
I mean I can tell them “roll through attacks, parry when their arm/armament moves towards you” but maybe that doesn’t fit their playstyle. That’s the main reason I don’t give advice, everyone is gonna have their own play style, and my methods may not fit theirs. Though I did find myself in disbelief that I in fact did have to tell a friend “you know you can just walk around the tree sentinel right”
I share your frustrations. My first meter would test the EC and spit out a ppm_500 (I think) conversion, which I then had to convert back into EC, and it just became a nuisance to use those scales. I have an EC meter that actually displays the EC in mS/cm now.
Yes thankfully mine does EC as well, but mine also had the ppm500 and ppm700 scale and I would always look at it like “uhh which do I use” and people would recommend ppm numbers and I didn’t know which ppm they were talking about, and at the levels they were talking about the difference between the two would be like 2-300ppm which seems pretty significant to me
All EC-meters which are able to show TDS/PPM values are just converting the measured electrical conductivity into one of many TDS/PPM scales. I am not sure what the purpose of those scales is, we already have a unified system and defined units like Siemens / meter. Deviating from that is just a little silly in my opinion :)
I mean tbh the measurement of ppm makes more sense as a metric for nutrients bc it shows you the “actual amount” of nutrients in the water, as opposed to just how conductive the water is… plants don’t care how conductive the water is to electricity, they just care about what’s inside of it. But yes EC is what the meter is actually measuring then converting it, so it doe make sense to be using that reading. However if we had an actual ppm meter that could actually see how many parts per million are something other than h2o then that measurement makes more sense to use for this application. But converting the measurement that we are reading doesn’t really make sense as there are different conversion tables and this can lead to errors in dosages if you’re trying to base your dose off either a feeding chart or someone else’s experience
It’s completely different organisms that have completely different rules. I even nebulize it bc misting it doesn’t make the particle size small enough. I will try to find my notes on the exact name of them.
So I just pulled up my notes and SLF-100 is actually more enzyme so that’s why it’s compatible with H2O2. Many of us use enzyme cleaners like Natures Miracle to clean up biological yuck. So it’s technically not mainly beneficial bacteria.
Ah it’s an enzyme not a benny, that makes a bit more sense as to why it works with h2o2. Guess it works, just not something I’d spend my money on. To each their own
If you want more sedative effects, wait for more amber heads, up to 60%, after that the bud does seem a bit less potent so keep that in mind. If you want a clear headed high then don’t go over 10% amber heads.
Well I guess the distiller is mostly for the humidifier to prevent buildup. Comes in handy sometimes too when they do seasonal maintenance of the water system and “shock” it with excessive chlorine.
Fair enough, I live in an environment where the only time I’d need a humidifier is if I do seedlings or cuttings without a humidity dome. Which I’m going to try next time, to have high humidity for the whole tent so I can hopefully bump up my lights earlier. I watched a video on a study where they were still able to hit seedlings with 30+ DLI, now I wanna try it for myself
I think you’re right on. Did a little research and pretty dam sure I have nitrogen toxicity going on from over feeding. I noticed a few leaves with the “claw” on the tip and a few with brown tips. And like you said, when I increase the light it pulls more water and nutes out of the soil and makes the problem worse. None of the leaves are real dark though. I just did a water flush. Gonna only water for a bit and see how she does. Thanks bro.
Yeah of course, glad to help. Those plants should be able to take at least 800ppfd before you have to worry about much, even 1200 might not be pushing it too far. Just make sure you slowly increase the light after you’ve solved your issue, you don’t wanna shock them
Do you mean that you set a humidity on your dehumidifier, but it makes you press a button to start dehumidifying even when it’s above that humidity? Or do you not set a humidity, there is just a start button and it displays the humidity? Also to clear things up, at least as far as I know, there is no such thing as a “hygrostat.” it is either a hygrometer, which displays humidity. Or it is a humidistat which controls things based on humidity. So with those definitions in place, does your dehumidifier have a hygrometer or a humidistat?
You don't need oscillating fans but it does make it much easier to avoid dead spots, when they don't move you end up with areas in equilibrium even with a large number of fans. Even a couple of unsynchronized oscillating fans create so much randomness that you can hit every spot in the grow with significantly less actual airflow happening.
I got my fans at the bottom blowing up thru the canopy, with the air movement essentially going up thru the canopy and just swirling around at the top to eventually get pulled down… no matter where I put my hands above the canopy I can actively feel air being pushed between my fingers, if I stick my face in its even easier to feel all the air movement and I get to enjoy the 80f 60% humidity air :)
I just simply have so many fans that it doesn’t matter that they don’t oscillate, but yes I’d recommend oscillating if you don’t have 2 6in fans and a 11in fan at the bottom blowing through your whole canopy in a 2x3 lol
Uhh I hope it’s not 750ppm otherwise it’s definitely time for a new tds meter has it at 600ppm (just got around to checking with my meter idk why I thought it was so much lower)
You can kind of answer this yourself for free. Download the "photone" app to your phone, set the proper light type in the settings like LED w/ the colors of your light and then place it near the plant area. It will measure both PPFD and DLI for free. Depending on the type of phone you have the app can be more or less accurate but it's better than not knowing anything.
I’ll admit, I’m not an expert on the nitty gritty science of grow lights. I know some people really get into the weeds on that stuff. I have the SF600 which is the same light, just longer to fit my shelf. I only grow peppers, so I don’t have a great frame of reference for all the different things you could grow.
That’s totally fine, I’m actually currently using a timer power strip that has 4 timed outputs for a different growing project, but I have it set to 24h on bc I just didn’t have anything else on hand with enough outlets, so I can just buy something new for in there and switch it out. Curious though as to how fast you feel your peppers are growing compared to if they were in soil outdoors tho
Not OP but right now I have some dwc jar plants outdoors and it’s been real rainy the past few days, and the rain water can freely enter the jars through the hydroton but the plants still seem happy, haven’t even checked nutrient levels. I feel everyone in hydroponics is overly concerned with getting the perfect feed, it’s really not that deep imo
If it was truly seeded by a hermd flower then it should 100% produce a female seed due to no male chromosomes being present but they will carry a chance to herm again
It’s indoor and only 2 plants both female so good 99% chance it wasn’t stray pollen from a male plant… guess I just gotta hope the herm came on from me giving it a bit of a stressful time
Only if the herm was caused by weak genetics, and not just stress.
Guess I’ll have to just keep my fingers crossed when I try to pop em later, genetics should be good, and the other plant didn’t herm and doesn’t have any visible seeds and it’s all been the same conditions just one got root rot and the other didn’t so I’m hoping that’s what caused it
I think it not that everyone is trying to be a complete dick. For example, a lot of the time I respond to something in text it is extremely hard for me to get the tone right. Idk what you’ve posted/asked about but for things like a trellis net I could easily see someone being like “hey, next time I’d recommend building your own net with pvc and string so you can just cut the net out and it only costs like 20 cents in string to reset” or something that could easily come off as more negative as “I’d recommend putting in more fans for air movement rather than rely on a dehumidifier to keep humidity in check, also having lots of fresh air brought in if you don’t have co2 supplementation could be beneficial”
As water temp increases the oxygen level drops. I think best wayer temps is around 70 degrees.
I think generally the range is between 68 and 72 for ideal, can usually make it to 75 without much issue but wouldn’t wanna push past that without something to keep root rot at bay
but.... why? ^^
Bc I started with growing weed in coco and that made me realize that I really just like to take care of plants, so I just used all the same stuff… I enjoy the process of growing in coco but with lots of plants and no auto watering it does get a bit busy lol, I also have other plants in DWC… my s/o was telling me like “you don’t need the air stones for green onions, they’re super easy to grow” and my response was “yes, but look at how happy they look :)”
that doesnt explain why you dont switch to soil tho :D
I have this, I don’t have soil that I’m not already using in my outdoor beds that are on a drip system or in the middle of a greenhouse that I’m in the middle of building and don’t wanna put anything in til it’s all up… just a lot of things to do and not a lotta money to do it with lol
One of each, I’m sure you can find a way to make it fit
I’ve beaten the game at least 15 times, still haven’t explored at least 60% of caelid… idk what it is about that place but every time I’m there I just wanna get tf out… ik this is true with everything in the game, but damn does everything wanna kill you out there. Maybe it’s that a lot of the enemies in the area are not humanoid that makes them a lot more difficult to fight for me
Hemp plants and THC plants are the literal exact same plant. They're both cannabis sativa and can be either subspecies sativa or indica.
Ok, and granddaddy purp and northern lights are also the same plant, yet have different terpene and cannabinoid profile. When I say hemp I am referring to the hemp that is used in hemp fibers and what they used for making CBD creams for years. In other words, industrial hemp
Ok, so for starters you yourself even stated that what you said in your comment could very well be wrong, and my intention was simply to correct an incorrect statement and provide a tiny bit of education. Now, if you or anyone else reading this is interested in learning a bit more about the scientific background of the plant as well as some more scientifically accurate terminology, please read on. This is a topic that I'm incredibly knowledgeable about and I really enjoy teaching people who also share a common interest or passion. In the words of a wise mine who went by the name of Ol Dirty Bastard, I'm about to "drop science like girls be droppin' babies."
Most of this seems plausible and agreeable, however is CBN(a?) not just degraded THCa? I’ve read from a plethora of sources that as the plant matures and trichomes turn amber that is the THCa degrading in to CBN.
still bad advice for relatively new players
this is my only advice for new players
it's good advice,but not as the only advice
I mean I can tell them “roll through attacks, parry when their arm/armament moves towards you” but maybe that doesn’t fit their playstyle. That’s the main reason I don’t give advice, everyone is gonna have their own play style, and my methods may not fit theirs. Though I did find myself in disbelief that I in fact did have to tell a friend “you know you can just walk around the tree sentinel right”
I share your frustrations. My first meter would test the EC and spit out a ppm_500 (I think) conversion, which I then had to convert back into EC, and it just became a nuisance to use those scales. I have an EC meter that actually displays the EC in mS/cm now.
Yes thankfully mine does EC as well, but mine also had the ppm500 and ppm700 scale and I would always look at it like “uhh which do I use” and people would recommend ppm numbers and I didn’t know which ppm they were talking about, and at the levels they were talking about the difference between the two would be like 2-300ppm which seems pretty significant to me
All EC-meters which are able to show TDS/PPM values are just converting the measured electrical conductivity into one of many TDS/PPM scales. I am not sure what the purpose of those scales is, we already have a unified system and defined units like Siemens / meter. Deviating from that is just a little silly in my opinion :)
I mean tbh the measurement of ppm makes more sense as a metric for nutrients bc it shows you the “actual amount” of nutrients in the water, as opposed to just how conductive the water is… plants don’t care how conductive the water is to electricity, they just care about what’s inside of it. But yes EC is what the meter is actually measuring then converting it, so it doe make sense to be using that reading. However if we had an actual ppm meter that could actually see how many parts per million are something other than h2o then that measurement makes more sense to use for this application. But converting the measurement that we are reading doesn’t really make sense as there are different conversion tables and this can lead to errors in dosages if you’re trying to base your dose off either a feeding chart or someone else’s experience
It’s completely different organisms that have completely different rules. I even nebulize it bc misting it doesn’t make the particle size small enough. I will try to find my notes on the exact name of them.
Is this for aeroponics or are you using it as a foliar spray? I’m confused as to why you would need to nebulize this product
So I just pulled up my notes and SLF-100 is actually more enzyme so that’s why it’s compatible with H2O2. Many of us use enzyme cleaners like Natures Miracle to clean up biological yuck. So it’s technically not mainly beneficial bacteria.
Ah it’s an enzyme not a benny, that makes a bit more sense as to why it works with h2o2. Guess it works, just not something I’d spend my money on. To each their own
If you want more sedative effects, wait for more amber heads, up to 60%, after that the bud does seem a bit less potent so keep that in mind. If you want a clear headed high then don’t go over 10% amber heads.
It’s even ribbed, for your pleasure.
Oh… mine just looks like that
Yeah agreed. My municipality uses RO and carbon filtration. But like many, they add chlorine and fluoride. I do have a distiller that gets used often…
I just have a carbon filter in my tap and say “meh, the chlorine will just help fight root rot”
Well I guess the distiller is mostly for the humidifier to prevent buildup. Comes in handy sometimes too when they do seasonal maintenance of the water system and “shock” it with excessive chlorine.
Fair enough, I live in an environment where the only time I’d need a humidifier is if I do seedlings or cuttings without a humidity dome. Which I’m going to try next time, to have high humidity for the whole tent so I can hopefully bump up my lights earlier. I watched a video on a study where they were still able to hit seedlings with 30+ DLI, now I wanna try it for myself
“You’ve got $20, what are you gonna do?” “Not for long. I make bad financial decisions”
You're lucky. My S/O took a few of my dynas for themselves.
You cut the bills in half, but don’t want to cut the dynas in half, so you share them
I think you’re right on. Did a little research and pretty dam sure I have nitrogen toxicity going on from over feeding. I noticed a few leaves with the “claw” on the tip and a few with brown tips. And like you said, when I increase the light it pulls more water and nutes out of the soil and makes the problem worse. None of the leaves are real dark though. I just did a water flush. Gonna only water for a bit and see how she does. Thanks bro.
Yeah of course, glad to help. Those plants should be able to take at least 800ppfd before you have to worry about much, even 1200 might not be pushing it too far. Just make sure you slowly increase the light after you’ve solved your issue, you don’t wanna shock them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID9rE5JewVg
It’s not that long, I’ve had people reply with 2 hour long videos expecting me to watch the whole thing as if I don’t have a job lol
Nah, all good 👍 plus it's 50% iso and 50% distilled water
I assume 50% of the 99% iso right not the 75% bs they have at dollar general lol
Correct and correct my friend
God I miss the days of the 99% only bein like $2 for 16oz
Do you mean that you set a humidity on your dehumidifier, but it makes you press a button to start dehumidifying even when it’s above that humidity? Or do you not set a humidity, there is just a start button and it displays the humidity? Also to clear things up, at least as far as I know, there is no such thing as a “hygrostat.” it is either a hygrometer, which displays humidity. Or it is a humidistat which controls things based on humidity. So with those definitions in place, does your dehumidifier have a hygrometer or a humidistat?
It would be helpful if you could also do a line diagram of how you make the dehumidifier function, similar to this
Fuck bitch has come out more than once lol
To be fair, I’ve also called my cat “shithead” so many times that he now responds to it as if it’s his name… his name is “Kuro” so not even close
I just let out a "fuck this" for you
Yeah I have since purchased a little water pump so I can just pump the water out of the res… probably the best $15 I’ve spent on growing
It should be fine, usually they’re more brown than orange if it gets pollinated but maybe I’m just wrong, it’s happened before
Nice, not too much longer to go :)
You don't need oscillating fans but it does make it much easier to avoid dead spots, when they don't move you end up with areas in equilibrium even with a large number of fans. Even a couple of unsynchronized oscillating fans create so much randomness that you can hit every spot in the grow with significantly less actual airflow happening.
I got my fans at the bottom blowing up thru the canopy, with the air movement essentially going up thru the canopy and just swirling around at the top to eventually get pulled down… no matter where I put my hands above the canopy I can actively feel air being pushed between my fingers, if I stick my face in its even easier to feel all the air movement and I get to enjoy the 80f 60% humidity air :)
I just simply have so many fans that it doesn’t matter that they don’t oscillate, but yes I’d recommend oscillating if you don’t have 2 6in fans and a 11in fan at the bottom blowing through your whole canopy in a 2x3 lol
How did a seed even go there?
Just like me, slipped thru the cracks
Looks like you are at about 750ppm hypochlorous acid.
Uhh I hope it’s not 750ppm otherwise it’s definitely time for a new tds meter has it at 600ppm (just got around to checking with my meter idk why I thought it was so much lower)
Opps I did 5g, didn't see you had 4.5g. Turns out to be 675ppm for 4.5g of 56% CalHypo. The 56% is figured inside the calculator.
I just checked based on 675ppm and I’d need ~1ml for 0.2ppm
You can kind of answer this yourself for free. Download the "photone" app to your phone, set the proper light type in the settings like LED w/ the colors of your light and then place it near the plant area. It will measure both PPFD and DLI for free. Depending on the type of phone you have the app can be more or less accurate but it's better than not knowing anything.
I have the app, I don’t have the light… it would cost me $70 to figure it out this way, that’s why I asked lol
I’ll admit, I’m not an expert on the nitty gritty science of grow lights. I know some people really get into the weeds on that stuff. I have the SF600 which is the same light, just longer to fit my shelf. I only grow peppers, so I don’t have a great frame of reference for all the different things you could grow.
That’s totally fine, I’m actually currently using a timer power strip that has 4 timed outputs for a different growing project, but I have it set to 24h on bc I just didn’t have anything else on hand with enough outlets, so I can just buy something new for in there and switch it out. Curious though as to how fast you feel your peppers are growing compared to if they were in soil outdoors tho
You are gonna have a pond of algae if you don't block the sunlight on that rez.
Not OP but right now I have some dwc jar plants outdoors and it’s been real rainy the past few days, and the rain water can freely enter the jars through the hydroton but the plants still seem happy, haven’t even checked nutrient levels. I feel everyone in hydroponics is overly concerned with getting the perfect feed, it’s really not that deep imo