1. Definitely cleaner, but it's suboptimal because the line drops below the bottom of the trap before meeting a vent line (somewhere in the wall), so there's a risk of siphoning if you have sufficient flow. It's uglier, but ideally the trap should be attached to the section that runs into the wall and use your diagonal drop to feed from the tailstock down to the trap.

  2. Sorry, I should have been more specific on that comment. I'd lose out on getting more value out of the rebates since I doubt they would cover the cost to install a sub panel. Maybe that assumption isn't accurate though. If the sub panel was installed, the cost of the individual 50 amp outlets would be minimal compared if they had to run it all the way back to my service panel in the basement.

  3. Going to depend on your rebate scheme. Ours covered everything except the upcharge for 2 gauge over 6 gauge wire.

  4. Yes, pumping the tank removes everything from it, including the sludge and scum layers.

  5. My favorite slogan yet: "We don't take shit from anyone - unless they pay us"

  6. Thanks ! Apparently it have issue with recording at 4k 30fpm

  7. Recording is handled locally on the drone. You just need a sufficiently fast SD card.

  8. I'd bet on physics error given the magnitude, but yes, rotary wings will accelerate when you use gravity to apply flow over the wings - that's how autorotation works and how maple keys helicopter down.

  9. Think about diagonal, it's not that much more work to install. It doesn't work with every flooring / room combo though.

  10. I'm not sure of the design of the spindle, so maybe the surface you're indicating is also the surface the bearing runs on, but on my lathe's spindle, that's just a boss to stop the back of the faceplate/chuck, the outer surface isn't involved in, um, lathing.

  11. Another thought, you probably need to check for side-to-side play too.

  12. Looking to get a new Timex as a daily driver now that my Expedition Scout is long in the tooth.

  13. Either I'm extremely lucky, or the 30M WR on the weekender is hilariously underrated by the usual watch industry concepts - in other words, in line with reality.

  14. You can still get it but at least here in the US the chlorinated is harder to find and usually more expensive.

  15. A month ago, it was the exact opposite here in Ontario. You need to be really careful with the descriptions if you want non-chlorinated brake cleaner and it was about a dollar more a can. I do think the chlorinated brake clean was more effective, but it's not worth even having the can in the garage given how many things it'll absolutely destroy if a drop touches them.

  16. Love the strap. It's that the Longines strap or aftermarket?

  17. This is parental life. Two tactics that are more acceptance than solution:

  18. I'm looking for a suggestion on a "dive watch", sub-$750usd (new or used whatever's available) with a couple of criteria:

  19. Have you looked at the new CW trident pro 300? It’s a better watch in basically every way.

  20. They look really good (minus a point for still having a date even if it's well done at 6:00). They break my budget though (with a bracelet) unless they're way under MSRP at launch.

  21. We rented a 2.5ton excavator for a weekend this summer to expedite some yard work - apparently they'll let anyone rent things.

  22. The industrial base adds a tiny amount of height height (maybe 1/4 - 3/8 inch?) whatever you need to do to level the outfeed table is going to be much more substantial I think. The industrial base is a piece of steel flatbar and grippy-tape that the saw rests on.

  23. All of these suggestion are great, but for me this is more of a dream list than a first list. I’d highly recommend a char-broil tru infrared. The infrared plates work like a restaurant broiler, which I have a lot of experience with, and the effects are amazing. They aren’t built nearly as well as a Weber, but they last with a little care. Mines over 5 years old and going strong.

  24. Seconded. I had a 2-burger tru infrared for 11 years and it was fantastic to cook on. Other than some rust on the stand and a broken thermometer it was maintenance free and all the stainless bits were still good.

  25. If, for some reason, you did miss the deadline - which you haven't if you haven't turned it on yet - you can do a video with their customer support team and get DJI Care Refresh as long as it isn't already obviously crashed.

  26. My mini 2 did this out of the box. Anything that slightly flexed the controller body caused it to tilt down. The little control wheel on the controller wouldn't stay in the center detent. Not sure it's the same issue since that's a different controller but I've heard of it with the mini 1 and mini 2 controllers. You can diagnose it easy enough by trying to do the "RC calibration" and you'll see that the wheel won't stay centered in calibration.

  27. It's typical for 1970s Ontario construction and normal. Other than being a bit fragile and annoying to pull it's the same rating as modern cable (90c PE insulation with ground). It's usually called "loomex" and other than being no longer produced, there's nothing that would stop you from installing it today let alone any reason to replace it.

  28. That's a very nifty tool, but I gotta say - seems like there's a lot of lateral force being applied to that pair of skinny wooden dowels once you remove that clamp. Unless I'm missing something.

  29. You're massively underestimating how much shear strength long grain dowels like that have. The weak aspect of this joint is that the supporting fibre in the hole will either be crushed/compressed or split away from the joint. Yes a steel pin would be stronger, but you were never going to shear the pin anyway. We didn't see it assembled, but I think it's reasonable to assume it's a pretty hefty tenon and either the geometry of the joint (a housed tenon) or the relative area (the hole is small relative to the total height) today you're basically limited by the tensile strength of the beam. At that point, the tensile strength of the beam is the tensile strength of the beam.

  30. Hey did a Google search as I have the same problem on a 4 year old tin. Do you remember how this worked out for you?

  31. Maybe not the answer you want, but I ignored it. I decanted the liquid in to smaller gallon cans and I dissolved a small amount of the sludge with mineral spirits, but most of the sludge went to the waste. The polyurethane it's probably missing some of the flatteners, strengtheners, and pigment but it works fine for furniture. I had a second tin from the same lot, but unopened. My local paint store was begrudgingly willing to shake it and it had no sludge when I opened it, but maybe it never did.

  32. Personally I'd rent a bobcat or tractor loader plus a dumpster and save all the labor. But otherwise, demolition hammer will be much faster than trying to cut it if you're not trying to save it.

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