1. My money’s on pad deposits + warped rotor for why the spots aren’t consistent in position or size

  2. Pad deposits as in material from the brake pads separating from the pad and sticking to the rotor, causing these spots? Is that a thing?

  3. The spots are the parts without deposits lol. You can see in several places the lines along the radius on the rotor marking the edge of the pad when it stopped. And yes. The warping as indicated by the spots and the pad deposits as indicated by the pad outlines both cause brake pulsations

  4. I don't really have anymore information on the situation other than it's a 2012 Jetta wagon and she popped both tires on 1 side of her car... I think she said by hitting a curb.

  5. You don’t pop both tires by hitting a curb… it takes effort to do just 1… should invest another $400 in a driving course

  6. It’s a ball joint for your front control arms, if it was yours, you’d know very quickly.

  7. The fuck is 50 ft lb over close enough? That’s nearing truck lug torque on an economy car. It’s not being a jerk for asking it to be done right

  8. Haynes does far from cover everything needed to know, and plenty of illustrations or directions are minimal at best. Every special tool at autozone? Is that supposed to be some bad joke? Won’t help for shit with EPBs, they don’t rent bleeders, and being rentals I wouldn’t even trust half of them to do their job properly. Rental torque wrench or spring compressor? I’d prefer living/not having to drill out snapped bolts

  9. You can get brake bleeder valves on amazon for 10 dollars. What else are you going to complain about?

  10. No the same pump I just bought a rebuild kit and replaced all the internals. It works while my rpm’s are higher but when I’m at idle or going very slow (like parking) it gets really hard to turn the wheel.

  11. So your pump probably isn’t building up enough pressure for the rack without higher rpm’s. If you rev it in neutral does steering become easier/normal? If so, 9/10 it’s your pump or the high pressure line is failing internally/leaking

  12. Yes it does become easier in neutral while revving and I was also thinking that but the weird thing is that it works while it’s cold even though it’s at the same amount of rpm’s

  13. I might go back to it being a leak then. As it heats up the viscosity drops, allowing a bigger leak and loss of pressure. It may even be an internal one. That seems even more likely given you rebuilt it yourself, no offense intended. Why were you rebuilding them in the first place?

  14. I’d never go 10k in a engine id want to keep. Just because it can doesn’t mean it’s good for longevity. Most manufacturers consider idling, short trips, and city traffic to count as “severe conditions” which merit a lower OCI. I have yet to meet someone who doesn’t check one of those boxes

  15. Coils aren’t a maintenance item… replace them as needed. Your civic (I’m assuming) doesn’t really care what spark plugs but make sure they’re actually for your car… I’ve gotten wrong parts that I ordered correctly, charged twice, and their vehicle fitment shit sucks…applies to both places at least local to me. Know what you need to get and make sure that’s what you’re getting

  16. Even though I have 100k on my car for the ignition coils?

  17. Yup. Replace them individually when they go bad. No need to do so any sooner or all at once unless you just have money to burn

  18. Modern cars will beep like crazy if you try driving with the ebrake on

  19. Typically no, depends who you get. Me and another guy I worked with would check out tires pretty well at a quick change place, while others would sometimes miss a lug nut (sometimes two) missing from the wheels.

  20. Thanks. Although I just realized. I don't have the big wrench for the oil filter.. And do I need torque wrench?

  21. If it’s a canister filter, you shouldn’t need a wrench, although you may if it’s been overtightened. If it’s a cartridge filter, you’d need a socket appropriate for it. Torque wrench never hurts, especially if you’re new to this. Cheap peace of mind, especially with aluminum pans or plastic filter housings.

  22. Going to do that thank you. Clio mk3 btw

  23. Year is needed too, engines and filter types can change through them

  24. Is this for the 3.2? Because a 2.5 can be done before lunch.

  25. Checking now I would assume so, since alldata says 17.2h for the 2.5

  26. Thank you..I need online courses as I can’t fully attend college courses (work duties, 5 days a week). I will check ChrisFix.

  27. Engineering explained too, he has less diy content but very thorough explanations of automotive systems

  28. Read the manual. It’ll tell you if it can retard timing running a lower grade fuel

  29. Worth it. Had to get it after the 3/8 m12 wasn’t enough to consistently get wheel lugs off and definitely not enough for suspension. It doesn’t give a damn about what a bolt was torqued to 15 years ago

  30. Yeah, i have a theory backed with some anecdotal evidence about that. Most people try to flush it at the first sign of an issue. Then blame the flush whatever k kater that it killed the trans. What happens is the old fluids detergent pack wears out. The trash in the trans falls out of suspension into the bottom parts of the trans. New fluid refloats the trash so the filter can get it again. I would flush a non problem trans at 175k and not think twice. A problem trans I wouldn't touch until it fails.

  31. Oh I totally agree on trying to flush or drain/fill after already having problems. But you also hear of trans with no shifting issues at all prior to service having such afterwords, if not entirely shitting the bed. I don’t know enough about transmissions to say or do otherwise, sure wish I did.

  32. They probably got fluid somewhere during the flush. Or its leaking. The flush won't hurt the trans. That's not how that actually works.

  33. A flush on a 175k mile AT won’t hurt it? You get trans that flop like a fish if you drain and fill above 80k…

  34. Yeah and that's like what 3k on the Lower end? Better stick to my honda fit for now then. Thank you

  35. The turbo is one piece with the exhaust manifold, which by itself runs for ~$1200.

  36. Thank you for replying. Igave up on pursuing this car. I'll stick to my reliable honda fit for now

  37. Fair enough. I’m dealing with what feels like problem after problem with this car, but I love it to death.

  38. How’d the other pad look? About the same? Why’s it look like the pad was installed the wrong way

  39. They are supposed to be black and these look perfect. They grow all over the USA Midwest like weeds.

  40. Oh I meant the white bit in between - sorry, I don’t know anything about this, thanks!

  41. Raspberries have that white line between. Thats not mold it’s natural

  42. Sounds like alternator problem, or belt problem. Alternators is self explanatory. Loose belt could be causing both not enough power generation and not enough pressure from P/S pump.

  43. yes, it gets loud at maybe 20-30 miles/hour

  44. If you rev the engine in neutral/park and the noise isn’t present or louder, it’s not the exhaust. If the pads and rotors were done, ensure the backing plate/dust shield isn’t bent into the rotor. Have someone look under your car as you drive it slowly and see where anything might be dragging or loose.

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