1. I think boot stiffness is going to be a big factor (potentially more so than binding interface). You shouldn't have an issue with NNN-BC bindings with stiff boots, but both NNN-BC and 3 pin with soft boots might make things more interesting when you get into the less mellow downs.

  2. Does anybody make stiff NNNBC boots? All I've found are leather ones. When I try to get my skis up on their edges the boots just flex instead. I'm a pretty good skier on NNN but have almost no control on NNNBC. I never use the skis I own with this type of binding because of it. If I've missed something and can actually put them to use that would be great for me!

  3. I think Alpina Alaskas are generally the stiffest widely available boots.

  4. Happens every year. They have to contact everyone who won and make sure they're a real person, etc. If they aren't they draw someone new. The winners will come out eventually

  5. Have you tried crayon technique? Touch the wax to the iron, then smear along the base. This provides the best wax distribution for all but the hardest waxes.

  6. This is the way, with a little practice you can even get it to work with start green and ch4/Swix Polar.

  7. It's probably fine. But every brand makes helmets that fit slightly differently. If you want to upgrade then I would suggest shopping around locally and trying on as many different brands of helmets as possible. I can almost guarantee that you'll find one or two brands that will fit your head better than others.

  8. Blue extra would have needed many layers to build enough cushion. The tracks get really transformed or even glazed in some areas. Carrot has a wider range in temp and snow type-in these long races you need something that works as conditions change. Carrot has a gummy texture (less than Oslo which is often a good Birkie under layer). But they all need a cover. Rode Super is a good cover option too - tends not to ice. B17 over Carrot or LDR is a solid alternative.

  9. Any tips for covering Oslo Blue without it turning into a mess? I should probably just get out and practice with it a few times.

  10. I use it often, but only under the toe. Very small dabs and synthetic cork in well. Make sure it is smooth. Overall length never exceeding 6". It works amazing well in a wide range of temps. Too much of it will be a disaster; icking up debris, sudden stopping, etc.. I think the key is to use a very thin film and it works great for me. Good luck!

  11. I've used it a few times with good luck. Never tried to cover it before though, so I'll have to practice with that.

  12. It stands for Top Speed Turbo. We are coming out with this next season as a roto-wool wax.

  13. I know very little about Klister. When you say Rosa are you talking Rode K40 Rossa?

  14. Racers get paid to ride 29ers. Apparently Nino preferred 27 but was told by Scott that they were moving exclusively to 29.

  15. Makes sense because none of my single speeds ever break. I suppose I could have not realized I bumped the shifter when stopped (just lots going on) so when I took off again it was off a gear. I wouldnt have even noticed and figured weight was the issure since they both snapped at the master link and looked forced apart not like cut by the gears

  16. Are you ensuring your master links are properly connected? The master link pliers are annoyingly expensive but also make life real easy in that regard.

  17. Was gonna say this. Don't know who's picking Edmonton over Boston at this point. But the model doesn't care about those things. Just cares about the data you enter.

  18. Wasn't there but I'm curious about what made the conditions so tricky and if you tried anything.

  19. Once the sealant has dried it doesn't really add much weight. It's mostly the liquid that eventually evaporates out that has weight.

  20. I'd recommend you check out some Caldwell Sorts videos on YouTube and hope thst Zach stops by to commit on this.

  21. I have no idea, because it's not important. Not so cool that I'm standing there forever waiting for it to melt, and not so hot that it's smoking on contact. Anywhere in between is perfectly fine as long as you're paying attention to what you're doing.

  22. Fair. Swix does give a temperature for VG30 (80 celsius) and VG35 (110 celsius - on their website, not on the tin) so it seemed weird Vauhti gives no guidance.

  23. Yeah some walkers are fucking cunts Edit, I just remembered seeing a news article a while back with a picture somebody had strung barbed wire across a trail, caught the guy across his neck/jawline

  24. This was eventually shown to be fake, the guy was a scam artist and tried to get people to donate money to him.

  25. https://www.pinkbike.com/news/stelanious-psaroudakis-aka-stelios-psaroudakis-charged-with-fraud-in-calgarybragg-creek-bike-trail-wire-strangler-fraud.html

  26. In addition to everything that's been said, one of the cues that's resonated with me is the idea that you should change the ski you're gliding on when you choose to, not when you fall onto the other ski.

  27. I would replace the tires, but not necessarily with Maxxis tires. Probably WTB or specialized as these are generally better bang for the buck.

  28. Bars all taper to 22.2mm where the grips attach so all dropper levers will work with all bars.

  29. Atomic and Salomon are owned by the same company and share a lot of technology.

  30. Correction: the C9 is the equivalent to the S/Race. The S/Lab equivalent is the C9 Carbon (or, on the skate side, the S9 Gen S). Yes, this is frustrating and confusing.

  31. Usually the white stuff isn't oxidization, it's just wax working it's way out of the base. If you have a reasonably stiff brush you can literally brush it off. The idea that bases oxidize is a bit controversial (I still believe that they can "dry out" and require a grind).

  32. Generally a higher front end (longer head tube and higher rise bar and stem) and shorter chainstays.

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