1. They really shouldn't be saying that in a teaching book, as it's false. Sealed systems should not leak. You might get a bit of loss from expansion/contraction of schrader valves, you will get loss from hoses during service if low loss fittings aren't being used. The 1oz over 10yrs if it's not being serviced is pretty accurate, but if you're losing a pound or more on a consistent basis, you have an actual issue somewhere.

  2. Get some coil cleaner, clean both your indoor coil unit and you condenser unit. you can buy the coil cleaner at lowes. They have an alkaline solution and detergent, I prefer the detergent.

  3. AC will lower temperature by about 20 degrees. An old AC will not be as efficient— but this is a question of cost not temperature. I had very good luck using a spray in foam insulation. Not cheap but it lowered the temperature in the attic by a large amount. Not compatible with the attic fan so had to plug that and disconnect.

  4. I mean it highly depends on your house, but for reference I have a 1940's pier and beam house with a fairly new properly sized ac. Insulation in attic is r30, and have a radiant barrier on the south and south east facing roof sides. I still would say the acl would run constant all day long if I tried to keep it at anything less than 74 degrees when its the hottest out. It'll jog down when night time comes, but it'll also last longer if I make it extra cold at night to help "coast" the ac the following afternoon.

  5. Maybe your AC is too small for your house or isn't cooling enough. I would get a laser temperature gun and check the temps coming out of your vents and your intake and see the difference. It should be around 20 degrees.

  6. I think everyone that can install one of them should have at least one standing by (or even sitting in the garage) for when things go south. A 12000btu one can be plugged into a 120 outlet, shoved in a window in a moment’s notice and keep a fairly large area cool or at least tolerable if your central AC goes out. They will also give you sometime to work out what you need to do without melting in your home. They can also be used with an appropriately sized generator incase a hurricane comes through and knocks your electricity out. If you’re not using it, just keep it boxed up in the garage till its needed. Or just use it to take some of the load off the central AC. Downside is they ain’t all that pretty.

  7. Radiant barrier is always good if your roof gets a lot of sun. Get your AC checked out, get a bid for a newer system, it might be undersized or ducts might be leaking. Do you have to do blown in insulation? I actually prefer the batting. Oh and you need ridge vents and soffit vents to let the heat out of your attic. You don't want to seal off your attic, you want the heat to be able to escape naturally.

  8. I have an old house with no insulation and single pain windows. Even with an oversized central AC unit the hottest days are a challenge. I bought a portable AC unit that I sleep in front of. That definitely makes a difference. I also have an energy plan where I don't pay for electricity usage at night.

  9. Replace the windows which costs a lot but worth it. Or get a window AC to help lower the load. Also during the day raise it up to like 78 degrees and chill it down at night.

  10. Need more info about the house. Foundation type slab pier and beam. Age of the home. Window type? For example, I Had a 1978 house a few years ago. I removed some of the drywall and the insulation was all crumpled in the bottom. The windows were single pane. Replaced the windows with a new double pane made a huge difference. It was like 3k for that but 2 of the windows were 1200 each because they were arched windows.

  11. Before we moved to our current house, we lived in a two-story 2100 sq ft 4/2 in SW Houston, built in 1965.

  12. I live in an old house in Timbergrove. We installed a 2 stage 3 ton ac unit (2000 sqft house), a variable speed furnace, and blew in cellulose insulation in the attic. This cut our monthly energy usage by more than 50%.

  13. In my opinion, unless you have some super huge suburban mcmansion, you should invest in switching to mini-split HVACs. 600-1000 per unit. You likely need a small 1-ton per bedroom and maybe a larger one for the living/kitchen. Total cost is just a few thousand. Installation is child's play compared to traditional central ACs. SEER ratings are insane at 16-20+. You can heat/cool just the rooms you are in, instead of the whole house all of the time.

  14. One thing our AC guy recommended was turning your ceiling vents towards the window(s) in each room. Many of us weren’t and after that change, we’ve noticed a big improvement.

  15. Get a home energy audit done. They are usually free from your energy supplier and they can inform you of various rebates, discounts, or refunds available for upgrades.

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