1. is it just me or do you guys find it funny how he is using a "high tech" machine to make an ancient weapon in the worst/weakest way possible

  2. It should be heated. I've placed an order for a custom 1200mm X 300mm keenovo heater but due to the Shanghai lockdown, they wouldn't be able to send it until the lockdown has been lifted. For now I'm using good old fashion blue tape which is working a lot better than expected.

  3. One improvement idea is to turn the cable chain 90 degrees and let it rest on an added rail. Low enough so it can double up on itself when moving back to that end.

  4. That is a good idea. I'm just lazy and cheap and didn't want to buy another long extrusion just for thr chain to rest on

  5. What about making the moving portal triangular? It’s as a rectangular prism right now, but might see benefits if you made a trianglular strut in the Y axis to both reduce weight and increase rigidity.

  6. I chose a rectangle since I used blind joints in this build. Much quicker to build + square the frame with less complexity than designing angled couplers

  7. As a previous Mendel builder, I wouldn't recommend it. Triangles are strong but calibrating triangles and getting everything "square" when it's not actually square can be challenging.

  8. Thats so amazing! How many probe points for the BL Touch? I hope you at least sped the probing up. It makes a world of difference, and still have a great first layer

  9. I just upgraded to a Anycubic Chiron because it was on sale. And now it is 40x40x40… enough to print some helmets, enough for me.

  10. As a suggestion, don't mount the spool on the gantry frame, lower the height of the gantry frame, and replace the right angle rear part of the frame with an angled piece for support. All of that will reduce the moving mass and increase your potential print speeds.

  11. Originally I had the spool mounted on a rack above and had a reverse bowden tube feeding it to the extruder. However, over 4ft of ptfe tube made it a massive hassle to manage so I got lazy and took the spool holder off an ender 3 mounted it on top of the gantry. Since the printer only moves as 50mm/s, it hasn't introduced ringing or other weight related artifacts.

  12. I've worked with a lot of large scale plotters and CNC for cutting woven graphite, this is definitely a closer approach to what those are doing. The newer models added belt feeds, but with carbon fiber you just use vacuum to keep it on the bed instead of heat and material characteristics here, so still easier, but looking at the output data the belt feeds really aren't much faster. Really comes down to setup time in a lot of situations. Also, maintenance on belt feeds suck ass

  13. We have large plotting/milling tables at my work that use vacuum to hold sheets of material down. They had belts for doing long rolls of material, but it's honestly more trouble than it's worth.

  14. Oh yeah I own both of the original kickstarter belt printers - iFactory and Crealtiy, and both are shit in their own way

  15. Pretty much this. The belt printers are decent at making lots of small objects but for long ones they are very hit or miss

  16. Cool design. A decent upgrade would be moving the y motors onto the gantry and using a single run of belt instead of a loop. It will get you less belt stretch and resonance. Take a look at how a machine like the shapeoko router does the belts. I bet you could get a fair bit more acceleration that way.

  17. I'm printing on blue painters tape right now since my heated bed is stuck in Shanghai due to the lockdown. As much as I love the enraged carrot feeder, for my purposes I don't have a need for it.

  18. How does one just design a printer? Any tutorials or tips, videos etc… would help a ton! Trying to do so on my own!

  19. I've built a number of the popular DIY printers (prusa bear, voron and BLV) and took design cues from them. This printer is based off a prusa bear (z and X gantry is just a scaled up version) with the y moving the gantry instead of a bed.

  20. Can you post a how to video? I am really into rc airplanes and have been designing and 3D printing the professional ones such as eclipson but they are done in so many pieces that glue together. It is nice so if u break a piece just reprint it but to be able to print the whole wing or fuselage would’ve amazing. Would absolutely love to see how a print of a full wing. I bought a professional 3D printer in a full case with ventilation and the prints are amazing. I just think that a whole piece would be stronger.

  21. Did you know how to build a printer before starting this? I'm trying to build a printer but am having a hard time starting. Any launch literature you recommend would be appreciated.

  22. It was really unreliable since the belt frequently missed steps due to the tension needed to keep it level, but at the same time it wasn't rigid enough and warped most of my sword prints.

  23. I've started working on designs for something like this with the goal of printing couches out of recycled plastic. Have you published the design anywhere?

  24. I’m very confused. This is obviously not a belt printer as you’re moving the whole gantry. But then why is it so complicated? If you’re just printing swords anyway why wouldn’t you just make an MPCNC or a similar diy CNC?

  25. It's just a Cartesian printer with the y moving the gantry instead of a bed. I used to own a CNC machine myself and hated the noise and mess it made. Also in Canada, plastic and wood stock is hella expensive compared to a $25 roll of PLA

  26. this is genius bro, you should make your own company and duplicate these or send idea to Ender so we can all be printing out rifles

  27. This is definitely something different. How come you didn't try to make the bed z axis? In theory it should have made the gantry lighter and allow higher speed.

  28. It's mainly to keep things as simple and cheap as possible. The gantry is essentially just a scaled up prusa bear since I had printed parts lying around and a fixed bed is much more stable than one going in the z direction. If I had the time and money I would do something like a voron 2.4 where the XY gantry moves in rhe z instead of the bed.

  29. This is great! I model swords for fun all the time and share them around. Message me and I can send some your way!

  30. I saw a video online somewhere of a printer with a conveyer belt instead of a bed; It printed a sword, and was fairly compact. Wonder if they designed it...

  31. Where did you purchase the materials for the frame ? I'm looking at doing something like this for my laser engraver. Thanks

  32. What kind of build strength do you get with that? Dont expect you could hit anything with it but can you even swing a sword made like that?

  33. Very cool! This is kinda like the moving portal printer that the printing proper guy designed. I seriously considered it for my cr10 s4 but I'm lazy and never got around to it. I admire your passion for the craft!

  34. Yep, I used exo slide for the Y as it around $80CAD for a full set instead of paying over $300 for linear rails for the Y length

  35. Cool build. I aspire to this level of 3D printing! What motherboard did you use? Are all the parts off the shelf, or did you use a donor machine?

  36. I used a SKR Pro for the board since has 6 stepper driver slots (I need 2 for the Y, 2 for the Z and 1 each for the X and extruder). Most of the parts are oretty off the shelf as if was based off a peusa bear platform.

  37. I'd hazard a guess the resulting prints are a lot stronger, with a lot fewer layers and a lot more surface area on them.

  38. I assume you had the CR30? I thought they were a terrible idea from the beginning, but would love to hear why you didnt like it

  39. With that amount of guns on the wall, I’m guessing you are an American? 😉 Cool setup for the swords! 🤘

  40. Super cool! The only downside I see is having to use low acceleration on the y axis, else there may be a lot of vibration... Using 0.4mm nozzle will take very long to print. Bigger nozzles should be more helpful here.

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