1. I can't believe this hasn't been said yet, but clean your bed. Warm water + dish soap occasionally, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol before every print with a lint-free cloth.

  2. I clean the bed before every print with IPA but the dust shows up between the time i wipe it and the bed warms up. I can try some warm water dish soap first though. Thanks.

  3. I fought with PETG for 3 days straight. These were the answers for me and I can print PETG all day long now.

  4. 90 seems hot, I use 70 and it works without any glue etc... Also compared to PLS increase z offset between .02 to .06

  5. Aquanet on the purple can from CVS. Cheap hairspray and good for 3d printing. Barely a spritz on your print surface, and voila, it sticks and releases reasonably well without breaking glass chunks.

  6. I had good luck using hairspray on my glass bed. That being said, after trying a pei bed, I haven't used my glass bed since. I pretty much exclusively print petg and have never had issues. Most will recommend a textured pei bed because petg adheres too well to pei, but I wasn't paying attention when I ordered and got smooth. As long as I wait for the bed to cool to about 60C, it flexes off without issue.

  7. Use a brim if it's really hard to stick, 15mm initial layer print speed, get that bed super clean dial in the bed so it's as close as possible. 69 deg bed, 237 deg hotend. Try a thinner or thicker initial layer to see if that helps too

  8. I had so many issues with this and PETG I made my first layer height .1 more than my regular layer height to get me some more squish. Seemed to help a ton for me.

  9. I made the experience, that PETG prints badly with steel nozzles as the extruded filament tends to creep up the outside of the nozzle, rather than stick on the surface. With brass nozzles, I did not experience this phenomenon.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

News Reporter