1. This is 100% normal, the gears have a small amount of backlash that allows for movement

  2. I think it would be better to have a dedicated winter car at that point

  3. You always should check fluid level in an automatic transmission with the vehicle running or else it will read high.

  4. And I’ll add that I would start the car and hope I make it to Autozone to get a new belt. I’ve been lucky enough that a 3/8” ratcheting wrench is usually enough to change the belt. But you may wanna bring some tools with you, or plan on buying a belt remover tool.

  5. This is a timing belt not a serpentine belt

  6. Is a section of your exhaust gone?

  7. Alignment is cheap tires not so much. It's worth getting check but its probably fine

  8. Is the alignment just way out?

  9. It looks like your exhaust brake is activated. If this is on a Hino truck or similar you can toggle it on or of by pulling up or down on the stalk at the right side of the steering wheel

  10. Sounds like an engine belt or pulley from the video

  11. E150, not ranger. Yeah, good truck, you'll end up doing the u joints, tie rods, and probably should do rotors, calipers, and bearings.

  12. It's an F-150 but back in 1978 Ranger was a trim package not a model of truck

  13. Is this a turbo charged vehicle?

  14. Why change just the bearing when the whole hub assembly is usually like $30 to $40...I just do the whole thing every time. Plus you get new lugs out of it. Win win, chicken din.

  15. I'm not sure where you are getting a full steering knuckle loaded with a bearing for under $40 but I would like to know

  16. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6BP8HP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

  17. What you linked are unit bearings that aren't serviceable, you are suppose to replace the whole thing. OP is replacing a front bearing, which is pressed into the steering knuckle. You can buy a loaded steering knuckle but they are pricey and don't always come with quality bearings

  18. That red wire looks like it's just an aftermarket add on. Did you check if the vehicle still had a serpentine belt and that the alternator was still spinning?

  19. Hey did you check if the blinker on the back of the car was out by any chance

  20. Hey the blinkers on the back are working just fine! It seems like its just that one blinker at the front.

  21. I just read through your post better you definitely just have a broken ground wire on that signal light plug. That's why it goes back to normal when grounded with a test light. You'll have to follow the wire back and find the break or add a new ground to chassis somewhere more accessible off that wire

  22. Are you currently removing the bolt or installing it

  23. What the heck. Is this on a Toyota Matrix/Corolla? You just undo the 3 small bolts for the right side engine mount and jack the engine up an inch.

  24. Never seen a lifted dually with stacks before?

  25. For those wondering, you are supposed to inflate this type of spare before installing it. I would expect there to be a can of fix a flat or something similar without the goo to inflate it.

  26. These cars usually have an on board compressor

  27. they've been using this type of spare for many many years. older cars that had these wouldn't have had an on-board compressor.

  28. Really what kind of old cars use these spares?

  29. These are the bolts that attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold. The sleeve covers the O2 sensor wiring. I would imagine someone parked in that spot had their catalyst stolen.

  30. All modern cars have at least one as part of the exhaust. This style bolt with spring is common on Toyota vehicles.

  31. Did you have the pan off the transmission?

  32. It's your under engine splash plate this style is held on by two bolts and a couple "screws" that turn 90 to lock. This cover has to come off to change the oil and the little screws are challenging to get to lock properly. People often loose this shield after an oil change because it is improperly fastened.

  33. I prefer using an air hammer with a straight flat bit on it, and hammer the area between the studs on the hub area. Eventually it’ll break up the rust and corrosion bonds and loosen up

  34. It looks like you have the suspension hanging in this picture. If that is the case with the frame supported jack up the front suspension until the rubber part of the shock touches its mount. You should then be able to install the top rubber bushing, washer and nut. Tighten it all down and you are good to go.

  35. It looks like a Chrysler 318 V8 to me. I think it's an earlier engine 1960's, but I'm not completely sure. Does that make sense with the year of the car

  36. The flex fuel really doesn't mean anything for most people because you are just going to run regular gas in it anyways. This truck has the 4.7L V8 which is flex fuel while it could also come with the 5.7L V8 which is not. The 5.7L Hemi is often more desirable because it has slightly more power for towing. That's not so say it's a better engine or anything but that is why you are seeing a difference in price.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

News Reporter