By sheer coincidence, this eclipse weekend my brother-in-law visited with his 2nd wife who is a professional church organist and choir director. When I described a fridge sized gizmo with musical note markings inside she immediately said “sounds like an electric carillon simulator”. She said it definitely had nothing to do with an organ. I’m not making this up!
That is a fun coincidence! However A carillon would not have pedal, percussion, swell, great, nor would it have any voices that weren't bells. This organ has many voices listed on the first picture if you zoom in. One of them is a carillon though lol so I guess there's truth to it having the ability to play bell sounds! Have you ever heard a church belfry play the toccata and fugue at noon? Nope. Just bells. This is also not the size of a refrigerator, it's the size of a small room as seen by the racks of what looks like amps to drive it....idk why I'm invested in this back and forth lol other than to dispell any confusion others may have about carillons because I think they are super cool.
It is well known that bltouch is a bad choice for deltas. You really want a probe that's directly below the nozzle or the smart effector by duet that uses the nozzle itself as the probe. From what I understand, the outer parts of the carriage are not equally parallel to the bed at all points in travel so your mesh will be jacked up. The magnetic one that comes on the flsun super racer is a nice probe to try. The other reason it's not so bad having a detachable probe is as long as you don't move the printer it should not need to be re-meshed for months and months. I only redo my mesh if I adjust belts or move the printer for maintenance and put it back.
For what a board with integrated drivers costs I don't know why anyone would bother with the original ramps on a machine like this. Skr pico would do the job even.
I have run a few of the BTT pis for people and they are just fine. Just make sure you get the antenna and stick it somewhere outside of the printer for a good wifi signal. Don't bother with Mmc. There's no more risk to running Klipper than there is running Marlin. The benefit is more control and MUCH easier firmware modifications. You do not need canbus. It decreases the number of wires going to your toolhead as it uses 4 conductors. It's a can of worms though and I don't recommend it until you're comfy with klipper and more advanced features of it. Make sure you explore the exclude object functionality, firmware retraction, remote monitoring, timelapse, pressure advance, and input shaper. I have the PIS input shaper that works with a USB-C cable. I like it, as having a bunch of wires going to the gpio felt sloppy in comparison.
You must connect the device to your PC and flash the firmware on it after you compile said firmware. This is pretty universal with all of them I believe. Then you put the appropriate line into your printer config and file into Klipper. Then you mount it on the printer and USB c - a goes between accelerometer and a pi USB A port. Run input shaper and get your results. Plenty of free tuts on that part. Here's the GitHub with instructions:
Flex plate is what saved me from giving up resin printing because prying parts off the plate sucks. So I wouldn't say it was a blind recommendation I pulled out of my ass. As far as the 400 rec goes, yes it's probably too fine. However if he had to be aggressive about removal it may be a good idea to bring it up to a nice flat surface before roughing it back up a bit.
Absolutely loved my shadow. Sold it and the guy totaled it a month later 😭. Poor bike. Anywho I digress....dress for the slide not the ride, and always have your head on a swivel. Plenty of other things but I'm sure others will cover different portions of advice. Have fun, be safe!
Build Giant lazy Susan. stand on it in the middle. Have a buddy lay a motorcycle on its side and put rear wheel on edge of platform. Accelerate the platform with motorcycle. Once you reach 2000 rpm, reach up with this hook and push it into the beam. Let go when you're at the right insertion depth. Slide to end of platform and rocket off into the neighbor's cornfield for a soft dismount. Fin.
They should be good enough to drive the appropriate speeds. Your cxy is capable of good speed. It looks like a flow issue though. Have you calculated your max flow for PLA with this new hotend? Try a cht nozzle and maybe even go to a .5 or .6 and pump your PLA temps to 225-230 for super speed runs.
yeah, it got up to 25mm^3/s but I turned it down to 23 and further down to 20 after some comments. I may have gotten some aluminum shavings in the CHT nozzle because I had to file a groove into the back and wasn't clean about it, I buffed it down though. The thermistor joint was in an awkward position. So I should do a cold pull just to be sure. It seemed the CHT nozzle took a higher PA value, is this normal?
Not sure, I use a normal volcano .6 in my deltas but I only run 150mms at 10k accel. Haven't messed with cht yet. Any changes in flow capability will change pa but one would assume a lower value with better flow, right? I think it's more about the springiness of your Bowden tube and loss of motion in the retraction process with flex in the tube.
Yeah but it'll still snap, guaranteed. Make em thicker and print them horizonal and press fit with a bit of epoxy. Also did you use abs for this print?
Lol no wonder it looks like shit. .47 is only for the most draft functional objects or vases that one wants some textured walls for.. Is this a public STL? I'll try it with my .6 on my super racer and see how it turns out. Most text does not play nice with .6. these would be best suited to a resin machine but a .4 nozzle could maybe do an ok job.
I think it looks cool. I may have tried a golden maple pickguard for contrast but keeping it all natural materials. Be it flame, quilt, burl, or Birdseye...would be a classy look.
This doesn't belong in this sub. Cute but just a karma grub probably blasted on every sub they could join...
it’s my first time.
Sounding rods then eh
Possibly a programmable carillon controller? How big is the whole thing? The one in my church’s sacristy (mid 60s) was about the size of a fridge.
Carillons are just huge bells. Not full ranks of pipe organ voices.
By sheer coincidence, this eclipse weekend my brother-in-law visited with his 2nd wife who is a professional church organist and choir director. When I described a fridge sized gizmo with musical note markings inside she immediately said “sounds like an electric carillon simulator”. She said it definitely had nothing to do with an organ. I’m not making this up!
That is a fun coincidence! However A carillon would not have pedal, percussion, swell, great, nor would it have any voices that weren't bells. This organ has many voices listed on the first picture if you zoom in. One of them is a carillon though lol so I guess there's truth to it having the ability to play bell sounds! Have you ever heard a church belfry play the toccata and fugue at noon? Nope. Just bells. This is also not the size of a refrigerator, it's the size of a small room as seen by the racks of what looks like amps to drive it....idk why I'm invested in this back and forth lol other than to dispell any confusion others may have about carillons because I think they are super cool.
Any specific reason why it can't apply an offset like on any Cartesian printer?
It is well known that bltouch is a bad choice for deltas. You really want a probe that's directly below the nozzle or the smart effector by duet that uses the nozzle itself as the probe. From what I understand, the outer parts of the carriage are not equally parallel to the bed at all points in travel so your mesh will be jacked up. The magnetic one that comes on the flsun super racer is a nice probe to try. The other reason it's not so bad having a detachable probe is as long as you don't move the printer it should not need to be re-meshed for months and months. I only redo my mesh if I adjust belts or move the printer for maintenance and put it back.
You can definitely improve your speed a lot by ditching the behemoth of a tool head you have going on there. That thing is massive!
Trash it. replace it. Print stuff.
For what a board with integrated drivers costs I don't know why anyone would bother with the original ramps on a machine like this. Skr pico would do the job even.
Never used 3d builder before but now have it, any tip as to what to do? I can't have it in vase mode.
Open it in Windows builder and if it has a red border then it needs repair
I did and fixed it and still this. Does the same in bambu as well with anything I slice.
I just noticed you have 4 colors added in there. Isn't all those travel motions the head moving over to purge?
If you don't hear a snap, your print has gone to crap. If you don't hear a pop, your print won't reach the top.
Ouch
I have run a few of the BTT pis for people and they are just fine. Just make sure you get the antenna and stick it somewhere outside of the printer for a good wifi signal. Don't bother with Mmc. There's no more risk to running Klipper than there is running Marlin. The benefit is more control and MUCH easier firmware modifications. You do not need canbus. It decreases the number of wires going to your toolhead as it uses 4 conductors. It's a can of worms though and I don't recommend it until you're comfy with klipper and more advanced features of it. Make sure you explore the exclude object functionality, firmware retraction, remote monitoring, timelapse, pressure advance, and input shaper. I have the PIS input shaper that works with a USB-C cable. I like it, as having a bunch of wires going to the gpio felt sloppy in comparison.
Does the PIS input shaper just connect to usb to the pi or are there extra steps?
You must connect the device to your PC and flash the firmware on it after you compile said firmware. This is pretty universal with all of them I believe. Then you put the appropriate line into your printer config and file into Klipper. Then you mount it on the printer and USB c - a goes between accelerometer and a pi USB A port. Run input shaper and get your results. Plenty of free tuts on that part. Here's the GitHub with instructions:
Melt it down and buy some silicone molds 🤘 make an ashtray or somethin 😆
400 is too fine of a grit, you want "tooth" for the resin to adhere to.
Flex plate is what saved me from giving up resin printing because prying parts off the plate sucks. So I wouldn't say it was a blind recommendation I pulled out of my ass. As far as the 400 rec goes, yes it's probably too fine. However if he had to be aggressive about removal it may be a good idea to bring it up to a nice flat surface before roughing it back up a bit.
Prying parts off, means your bottom (burn-in) exposure was way to high. ;)
Thanks, I'm too used to the beauty of swapping plates now between prints but I'll look into my bottom exposure times!
Absolutely loved my shadow. Sold it and the guy totaled it a month later 😭. Poor bike. Anywho I digress....dress for the slide not the ride, and always have your head on a swivel. Plenty of other things but I'm sure others will cover different portions of advice. Have fun, be safe!
Blowtorch
Build Giant lazy Susan. stand on it in the middle. Have a buddy lay a motorcycle on its side and put rear wheel on edge of platform. Accelerate the platform with motorcycle. Once you reach 2000 rpm, reach up with this hook and push it into the beam. Let go when you're at the right insertion depth. Slide to end of platform and rocket off into the neighbor's cornfield for a soft dismount. Fin.
The Cocktus
On the basement floor open...
I have 8x dual drive bmg clones, various steppers
They should be good enough to drive the appropriate speeds. Your cxy is capable of good speed. It looks like a flow issue though. Have you calculated your max flow for PLA with this new hotend? Try a cht nozzle and maybe even go to a .5 or .6 and pump your PLA temps to 225-230 for super speed runs.
yeah, it got up to 25mm^3/s but I turned it down to 23 and further down to 20 after some comments. I may have gotten some aluminum shavings in the CHT nozzle because I had to file a groove into the back and wasn't clean about it, I buffed it down though. The thermistor joint was in an awkward position. So I should do a cold pull just to be sure. It seemed the CHT nozzle took a higher PA value, is this normal?
Not sure, I use a normal volcano .6 in my deltas but I only run 150mms at 10k accel. Haven't messed with cht yet. Any changes in flow capability will change pa but one would assume a lower value with better flow, right? I think it's more about the springiness of your Bowden tube and loss of motion in the retraction process with flex in the tube.
"Mom! Someone shit my bed again!"
Can I modify the g code to print at high temp just for those couple layers.
Yeah but it'll still snap, guaranteed. Make em thicker and print them horizonal and press fit with a bit of epoxy. Also did you use abs for this print?
This particular print in PLA , planned for the final in petg
Petg has more flex than PLA, keep that in mind. So that may work in your favor.
I belive close to 0.5. Like 0.47 it was maximum that superslicer let me.
Lol no wonder it looks like shit. .47 is only for the most draft functional objects or vases that one wants some textured walls for.. Is this a public STL? I'll try it with my .6 on my super racer and see how it turns out. Most text does not play nice with .6. these would be best suited to a resin machine but a .4 nozzle could maybe do an ok job.
I think it looks cool. I may have tried a golden maple pickguard for contrast but keeping it all natural materials. Be it flame, quilt, burl, or Birdseye...would be a classy look.
Hell yeah, my 15w vypyr has some very surprising high gain tones. I'd grab it.