Its a scribe that fits in the handle of a combination square .

This is the way.

Its coming from the rear of the truck. When I do a test holding a cloth at the tail poo while the trucks running my exhaust isn’t sucking the shop towel back in

Is there good clearance around the exhaust?

From what i understand you can tap any of the 3 on the rectifier. That one looks pretty convenient. Be aware you'll probably need a converter box to make the wave thats generated there into a usable signal for the tach

Ok no worries cheers, does it matter what order I put them back in

No, as long as they fit in the slots theyll work fine

Ok no worries, should be easier to drive with working windscreen wipers lol

That and a cooling fan or fuel pump etc. Those little guys control a lot of shit

The w12 is fantastic looking and sounding but id probably shoot myself if i ever had to work on one

I work on them. The new ones are surprisingly robust and not terrible to work with. The old ones have common issues. You're either working on something that's easily accessible - or dropping the engine.

Not that i dont believe you but ill keep my renault/mack and cummins and perkins 4s and 6s thank you

Shits pretty mint. Plan on a tune up at a minimum. Drive it and make sure it shifts good and runs out ok. Transmission cooler, oil cooler and power steering lines are common on these, the factory crimps are shit. Block the rear a/c lines and run a rooftop unit if you want ac while parked up

Purely because theyre fuckin cheap

Brb dumping my boat in detroit so dem tiddies show up at my door

They used to be brake lines

I have hf quinn brand for small wrenches and a mix of pittsburg and jobsmart or whatever the tractor supply brand is for the 1-2 1/2 range. I have snap on at home but i wanted cheap stuff that would get the job done for work

The dorman shaft should be just fine. Ive used them a couple times and both were built with spicer components

Bottom is fuel, black rubber should have a choke plunger in it

A new valve stem and screw that holds the sensor to it

Out of curiosity, why are you wanting to swap?

I wanna be able to do burnouts and slam on the gas pretty much without anything breaking. Any ideas

Run the 4l60 till it goes then rebuild it better

Soak it down in kroil for a while

Likely heat, i bet its pulling every bit of that 15 amps. Turn it on a while and feel for it

I forgot to mention the boost gauge thats's DUCTTAPED to the windshield wiper.

Its not fun to install a front mount on those nor the tbirds. And the factory top mount is a joke. Id give the guy the benefit of the doubt and say hes testing and tuning before he goes through the hell of making it all fit properly

Looks like a remote comms equipment shelter, like youd see under a cell tower or radio transmitter site

Im surprised it stayed upright

Yep, they save a ton of frustration.

Rust in the cooling system isnt the end of the world. Keep at the cylinders with atf and cut your atf with some acetone. Something like 4:1 or so should do it. If you can pull the balancer off, they make sockets that fit over the crank snout to turn the engine. They work really well for this kind of thing. Move it a little at a time, and above all be patient. This is not a fast process by any means. Last one i did was a 351w and it took over 2 weeks to finally free up 360 degrees.

420 days

You always should check fluid level in an automatic transmission with the vehicle running or else it will read high.

Also it needs to be at operating temperature for an accurate reading

This is awesome

First one looks like the under hood light, ill have to go out and look at mine for the 2nd

Ok, upon review i need caffeine before i start answering questions.

If I just had to take a stab in the dark I would guess one of your CV axles got damaged. If an axle comes apart the car won’t move and park won’t be able to keep the car still due to the way a differential works (not important to this conversation)

I second this. An axle probably popped out of the trans.