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  1. Did you order the sticker from somewhere?

  2. I'm honestly not expecting much from the collection itself. It's not looking like the collection will be better than all the improvements the community has made over time.

  3. I do both all the time. You end on amorphactor pain, the magikey guy, the magikey counter trap, and whatever else is left over. If you open good you'll also have I:P and Linkuriboh.

  4. In BN4 the bug is present only on the original model DS and some emulators. If you're playing on a GBA or DS Lite you won't have an issue.

  5. I recommend the ITA display as well. FYI too don't need a specific shell but if you get any shell you'll have to cut some stuff out. Takes a while but it's easy to do.

  6. Thanks. I’d like to use the original shell. I watched a video that someone else recommended for instal and it seems easy. My modding experience is all with game gears and that is ALL soldering. When I saw this was a no solder ribbon that was pretty exciting. I need to find instructions for trimming the original shell for the ita screen, but it seems like a nice kit.

  7. this is the vid I followed when I installed mine, the guy also used an OEM shell so it'll show exactly what to trim

  8. if the buttons work but are hard to register a press, then that is a SUPER easy fix!. Just open the console, and use some Alcohol + Q-tip on the Start/Select gold contacts on the motherboard, and also on the bottom of the rubber buttons themself. Works every time, I've fixed many GBs with stubborn buttons like that. HOWEVER if the buttons don't work AT ALL, I'm not so sure this will fix it. But it's worth a shot!.

  9. hey do you have any tips on buttons that stop registering randomly? the d-pad on my GBA will randomly stop registering, usually just with down & left. It only stops for a second but it gets really annoying in games where you're holding the button to move.

  10. Looks like the previous collections go for $30-40 usd, depending on how you buy it (both bundled or individual like part 1/part 2). I’d imagine the BN collection will probably be $40 for physical or $20 each if you buy the digital version

  11. It's looking like it'll only be digital.

  12. So question for the thread. Do I get this on switch or steam deck?

  13. I think switch is gonna be more comfortable. The steam deck and switch have similar controls, but the detachable joy cons + joystick is gonna be so damn nice after years of the GBA's d-pad. Plus you still have d-pad for combat!

  14. if you have a DSi you can hack it and

  15. Yes i do, does $70 shipped via G&S work for you?

  16. Yep ^ I've only seen actual Dinos twice maybe. Same for the fossil fusion deck

  17. Sky Strikers and that fossil dino deck

  18. Confused on the difference between composite and s-video. Got a Trinitron (kv-36fv16) and I'm wondering what cables I ought to be using? It's a beast of a TV, I'll be using it mostly for PS2 gaming.

  19. S-video is a major upgrade over composite. Use that if you can.

  20. Thanks any opinion on s-video vs component?

  21. Hey still have the GBA? How much would you do for it + the Shaman King game?

  22. Judging from just the back of the board, it should be okay, the corrosion hasn't reached a sensitive part of the board yet, clean up as much corrosion off the board as you can, with a toothbrush and 90%+ alcohol.

  23. Front side, any thoughts? Corrosion around start/select and d pad.

  24. Yeah the part that you're showing literally just lifts right out. It's not even attached to the board.

  25. Thanks I'll just replace the battery contacts then. I'm more worried about the board though I have no experience with that.

  26. But the monster Go back to the deck at the end of the turn no?

  27. it gets destroyed at the end of opponent's turn I think

  28. Corrosion isn’t just where your arrow is pointing, it’s throughout the board in small spots around components and vias. It’s going to take some work to fix, and you may have ruined traces.

  29. Oh no 😨 Any suggestions on where to start fixing it? Assuming replacing the battery contacts doesn't help. The most soldering I've done before is adding a noise cleaner to an SP, but I'm guessing I'd have to solder wires to the ruined traces?

  30. Just letting you know that this posted several times.

  31. Ah really? I don't see it even once on my own profile. I'll go through and delete any extras I find

  32. Are they noticeably heavier than the plastic carts?

  33. Sea Stealth Attack can activate it from your GY.

  34. Yo where did you get the buttons?

  35. Your post reminded me - here's a Nekroz deck list that got top 8 in a 120 player event.

  36. Ritual decks don't do small right now, any ritual deck you build would have to focus on that mechanic even if the end goal isn't ending on any ritual monsters. 3rd place at YCS Hartford ran a deck that focused on Vanity's Ruler and Mystic Mine. It used Benten to search Diviner which in turn can dump Arc Light for a ritual monster or spell, and the Magikey ritual that searches its counter trap.

  37. So something you can try is replacing Diviner with Manju (lv4 so you can make Abyss Dweller or Tornado Dragon for the scythe lock) and replace Baronne with Apollousa. Apollousa does need 4 bodies versus Baronne needing two but that's the best workaround I see. Droplet you can replace with Forbidden Chalice/Dark Ruler No More. None of the alternatives are ideal though so you might want to try something that doesn't use those at all, like scythe lock Drytron using pre-prep and herald of Perfection

  38. Okay. Judging from what i'm reading, it’s probably best to hold handtraps until the junk speeder comes out?

  39. FYI you won't be able to ash Junk Speeder as they chain block with Junk Converter. So it has to be Imperm/Veiler/Nib

  40. What app did you use? I actually created it through my PC and that didn't help any

  41. I guess that app hasn't been updated as I couldn't download it but after messing around it turns out EVERY album individually needs its own .nomedia file. Annoying but problem solved.

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