1. Shad SD58x with the metal rack. I also have the optional back rests and rear light.

  2. Could be, I don't remember exactly how it looked before. The iron I have is a generic one that is sold under a dozen different brand names (mine is Mode, but Canadian tire sells the same one as Mastercraft) and most of them say they include the specific part # tip - but sometimes different depending on what brand it's being sold as. That was half my problem in tracking down a replacement.

  3. As mentioned, don't sand the coating off the bit. The correct way to clean the tip is with a little pod with wire wool type material inside.

  4. After hearing about how the damp sponge was not good, I am currently just using a dry slightly abrasive dish scouring pad from the dollar store with decent results. I am very much sorta a humble bumbling novice attempting to fix/make things on a budget, but I will look into getting some flux as well, and budget permitting maybe a proper wire wool thing. The solder I have is 2.2% flux tin & lead solder and seems to do okay on it's own for making connections, but with de-soldering parts it seems like some things were soldered with more flux than others and it's up in the air as to how well it will go onto the wick. Sometimes I think I end up a bit ruining things with too much heat trying to get the solder off, which is where I'm very grateful for your flux recommendation!

  5. Yes, if you had flux you could dip your braid in it and also the joint. It will desolder much quicker = less constant heat. Do you also have a solder suckered? When desoldering 'manually' I get most of the solder off with a sucker then use the solder braid to mop up the last bits. I'm pretty spoilt now as I have a heated electtroic solder sucker and that makes the jobs 10x quicker, neater and easier .... but it still possible to do well with flux, a suckere and a braid.

  6. That doesn't sound metallic and the starter is spinning pretty fast so I would say starter relay/solenoid.

  7. That strap setup for the tank bags looks.. well, it wouldn't want to be riding with a big "wall o' bags" between me and the console, but... hey - if it works for you!

  8. What windscreen extension is that? Looks good

  9. It's an MSA screen I found on ebay. The two halves are adjustable up/down by about 70mm or more by 2 thumb screws. You can even take the top section off, rotate it vertically by 180 degrees and reattach it to overlay the bottom one so you ha e a 'shorty' when you are out and about. It's a great screen and fixed all my buffeting problems. I'm 6' and don't even need it fully extended.

  10. Just remember if you jump it off a car do NOT have the car running.

  11. Sorry but that is just urban myth. A car is 12-14v. So is the bike. No matter the accelerator it will not put more Voltage than that into the bike because the cars alternator has a regulator.

  12. Well at the triumph shop I used to work in, the owner’s brother had a dead trident with a fried computer that happened while it was being jumpstarted. So think whatever you like. Maybe you’re right and it was just some freak accident. I’ll avoid it thanks.

  13. That would only happen if the regulator in the alternator in the car was on the way out. They don't always die quickly so that may have kept going.

  14. I always use 10-20mm paintbrush with tape on the metal ferrul. And a hoover/vacuum. You can brush in all the areas and the vacuum just socks the dust out of the air.

  15. PSU looks like it is crowbaring. It may be easier and cheaper ro replace the PSU board.

  16. LMAO of course 555 4017. I mean, at least steal something interesting!

  17. You need to first decide how the two will communicate with each other. Serial port? SPI bus? I2C? CAN bus? Smoke signals?

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