Sir, the spacing between the posts is too wide. She could get her head stuck in-between those. (Every crib post on Reddit) But seriously though, it looks like a really cool gift packaging idea. Great job.

Generally, I would suggest you invest in mini splits or heat pumps. It would probably be helpful to know your house size in sq ft and the year it was built. If you are using window A/C units, I'm going to guess it was built before 2000, so depending on the size, looking at something like spray insulation may go a long way, even before you invest in an hvac system. There is no point in investing in an expensive HVAC unit if your house will simply let all that heat out/in.

Great job! They look solid. The first furniture piece I built was a bed made of 2x8s and 2x4s, so I definitely understand the struggle. I recommend checking out some local lumber suppliers in your area (I used 84 lumber). Their stock is usually a little better than most big box stores.

Thanks! After doing this I see the need for a plainer there’s not a singe corner on these that’s square

You may want to invest in a sled for your table saw. Rockler has a bevel sled that you can use to make an edge straight and flat, or you can just make one yourself. I've seen people also use their router table as a jointer, but a router table is hardly one of the priority tools for most workshops, so table saw remains one of the best ways to joint boards until you can invest in an actual jointer. I've experienced quite a bit of blade pinching working with construction grade lumber (even with a riving knife) and this helps to significantly reduce that.

this old house can be a good start but they can be a bit vague

As some comments below mentioned, while YouTube is a great resource, you have to try to find some reputable channels. Even though they can be vague, This Old House shows you "the right way" to do it with considerations for building codes, climates, etc. I usually start with one of their videos, then try to find something a little more specific, with step-by-step instructions.

This Old House is a magazine, tv show, and online resource

Second this. They have plenty of free episodes on the Roku Channel or you could just search for specific topics on YouTube.

This great and all but how do you not have it on a matching gold chain?

Icon Gold plated towing chain, coming spring of 2025. :)

I feel like people who buy this are rich or really bad with money. No in between.

These things are still not even close to being as expensive as one of festool tools.

Will do. And hearing protection… my ears are ringing.

I have a shop vac in my shop, but half of the time it's too much hassle to use. However, I do have a setup similar to yours for general dust removal. I recommend adding a furnace filter either before or after the fan, to catch some of the dust leaving the contraption. As long as you use a proper dust mask, eye and ear protection, it's really not a problem. Check out Stumpy Nubs on Youtube. He has a whole video series on various tool safety and PPE.

I would suggest making a simple jig out of 2 flat boards screwed together at a 90 degree angle (perfectly square), then glue a spacer into the corner between the 2 boards to lift the piece into the correct position. Once your jig is complete, use it with a miter saw to cut it at a 45 degree angle. If you have to cut this using hand tools, you could use a speed square to cut the end of your jig at 45 degree angle, then use the edge of the jig to mark a 45 degree saw line. Good luck.

I would definitely insist on roof replacement. If the insurance company went through and paid for the replacement, you may not get so lucky down the road, when there is a bad storm and you do need a replacement. I've had an experience before where I needed $700 in roof repairs and the insurance company denied my claim, because that was less than my $1000 deductible. If you don't want to be in this situation, I would definitely go ahead and do it. Since you already filed an insurance claim, your rates will likely go up within a year. Sending money back to them doesn't make sense, since they will penalize you regardless. Keeping the money and not replacing the roof would be considered insurance fraud. If the company sends someone out to check on the completed work, you could run the risk of a lawsuit.

Generally speaking, for an older home, refinishing the floors would be the best option. However, you have to consider whether it will work for you long term (Is the floor in a good shape to refinish? Will sand or water be tracked into the house destroying the refinished floors?) If you do decide that the tile is the way to go, you want to remove any old flooring before installing tile. In fact, laying some cement board over subfloor and leveling the floor will make the tile last for a long time. As few others mentioned, installing tile over wood floors poses 2 issues: it raises the height of the floor, creating inconsistencies; and generates a lot of movement underneath the tile floor. Subfloor has very little movement, because of its composition, on the other hand solid wood floors will expand and contract with the seasons. Sealing those underneath the tile, the tile cannot expand or contract, so it will crack over time. In less than a year you will be replacing the tile floors.

I had this conversation with my mother lately. She wants to get me "fun" gifts. I told her tools *are* fun for me. She was frustrated because she got me that beautiful classical rail and style router bits from Rockler. After i got them she said to me she was "shocked" at what arrived and first thought she was getting something huge and thought they sent the wrong thing. XD

Out of all gifts I received for Birthday and Christmas, the one I appreciated the most is the self-centering dowel jig. I use it every chance I get to make a joint. I know I need to work on other joint types, but dowels are so easy.

My brother recently got me a 3/8 doweling jig i asked for. I can't wait to try it out. I've never done dowels (I typically do rabbets/grooves/dados) so I'm thrilled to try em.

I got one from Milescraft a while ago, but I have a love-hate relationship with that one. It's nice to be able to do a 90-degree assemblies, but I can never get it perfectly aligned and even then it tends to move on you. The self-centering one I got recently, has been completely different experience.

Depending on your local building codes, it may be legal. There are at least 5 studs there that should support each other. I would be mostly concerned with the stud on the left, where they cut almost all the way through.

I pay them in peanuts, literally

Some characters like scrooge expect pretty expensive gems. Also, after you spend 50k coins to buy them a house, I would expect no less.

I was going to use this for a sign frame. It's definitely hardwood, based on the weight. Got some chipping when planning it and extremely fine powder when ripped on a table saw.

It definitely looks like walnut. Does it have a sharp smell when you cut or planed it? Walnut has a very distinct smell caused by a chemical in the heartwood that makes it unsuitable to use the sawdust or shavings around horses, they have a bad reaction to it. Hope this helps.

I just recently upgraded to this-style furniture in my shop. Beats trying to build stuff on the floor of the garage or on top of a table saw. Not everyone has few grand to spend on baltic birch for their shop furniture.

The contractor should definitely remove the old tiles first. If there are a lot of cracked and loose tiles, you may have a bigger issue and you won't know what it is until you rip up the old tiles. When we were re-doing my mom's house we found out that the old tiles were put over vinyl flooring. Something else I've seen before is people installing tiles straight over subfloor, without any cement board or anything to ensure that the floors are perfectly flat. Get a good contractor who will rip-up the tiles, check out the subfloor and do this right.

How would you line up the dowels perfectly?

You glue it first, using clamps to keep the pressure, then making sure to drill perpendicular to both pieces, drill through the broken piece and part way through the base. You'll need a pretty long drill bit, though and it could be a little tricky to make sure you are drilling straight.

As many people on here recommended, I would use wood glue (get a reputable brand) and clamp the piece to it. It should fit together well, without being too snug. The issue you might have is making sure it stays flat and true. I would recommend getting a ratchet clamp to go around the circle, then use bar clamp to clamp it across in the middle. You may also want to get 2-3 small clamps to clamp it vertically, on the joint, so that the piece doesn't slide off or change the plane in any way.

Part 2 (Simple DIY): Crow bar 18 gauge nail gun Miter saw Worksite table saw (small-medium DIY) Wrench/socket set Various pliers (including plumber's pliers) Various battery-powered tools (jigsaw, multitool, circular saw, etc.) Router (small-medium DIY) Sander Various sandpaper grits Sanding blocks Various length nails/screws Wall anchor sets 25ft, 50ft, etc. extension coords Multimeter Outlet tester Wire stripper Wire nuts, electrical tape Metal and wood handsaw Propane torch, flux, soldering wire Tile saw (if you choose to install tile)

Part 1 (Regular maintenance): Hammer (to knock-in any nails) Tape measure (always good to have) Caulking gun (For caulking or siliconing tubes, showers, etc.) 50ft hose (Flusing hot water heater) Transfer pump (it water heater is in the basement) Drill (various small projects) Drill driver and bit set Dryer vent brush (self-explanatory) Shop vac (Cleaning up any large mess) Paint brushes / rollers (to fix any paint scuffs, scratches, or imperfections) Leaf blower (for various outside work) Spade and/or shovel (for yardwork) 6-8ft A-Frame ladder for inside Appropriate length expanding ladder for outside

I would suggest looking on RockAuto. They usually carry a few various plastic replacement pieces for car bodies. For a lower bumper, you are probably looking at at least $200-300.

I think you may need to debug your APs.

If the floors are in a rough shape, I could see the realtor trying to convince you to follow the easiest option and cover them up. This is a non-destructive and cost effective option. While I agree with other posts that mention floor restoration, it's quite a large project that could turn out pricey, unless a lot of elbow grease is applied. Also, it all depends on whether spending the money or effort restoring the floors would help your case. Perhaps based on area or home type, putting more money into floor restoration is not going to be worth the return. Your realtor should know the market, so talk to them whether it's going to be worth it to do a restoration. I'm all for restoring vintage houses and while it's not my vibe, I know a few people who would kill for a house like that. But I have also sold a couple houses, so there is always a balance of how much you spend, to ensure you don't end up loosing money.

That sounds like job security: Make a crappy cord, it gets bent and fails in a few months, speed gets downgraded to 100Mb/s, you get asked to make another cord.

Back around summer/fall of last year this may have been a good deal. Both my wife and I were stalking about 5 dealers in our area looking for any inventory updates. We bought our cars same day they hit the lots. At that point, most dealers would be happy to spend extra 2k to buy a car with low miles and flip it for extra 5k to someone who needed a car fast. Now that they got their inventories restocked, not so much. If anything, with rising interest rates, they are probably in trouble trying to sell all the back stock inventories they have.

Welp, next it’ll be a monthly subscription $$ just to keep the paint sticking to the walls

For a low price of $39.99/month, we will come to your house and recharge your paint ions in order to make sure your paint doesn't just fall off the wall.

I have previously used both cheap (Harbor Freight and Wen), and some middle of the road (Dewalt and Cobalt tools). I finished two complete house flooring projects using a harbor freight table saw, miter saw, and jigsaw (About 4000 sq feet of click floring). At the same time, I have also struggled with some finer accents and woodworking with the same tools. I can definitely understand the struggle and have done fair amount of research on those. Based of what I can tell, it all comes down to 3 factors: Cost, longevity and precision. Before going out there and spending $800 on a Makita Miter saw, ask yourself this, "Do I need all the features and precision of this saw?" If you are doing flooring, usually 1/4 inch is acceptable tolerance, so Harbor Freight or something a little better will do just fine. Harbor Freight Saw will still last you 4-5 years with occasional use. However, if the thought is to do fine woodworking or intricate detail pieces, $800 may be a worthwhile investment. There are also some tools where brand doesn't really matter. For example, a sander is just a sander, find the one with the features and power you need and you probably won't notice the difference. If your harbor freight sander dies in 2 years, you spent $20 compared to a $50-60 Devalt sander. I would say the same for an angle grinder or a corded drill. For cordless tools, middle of the road is where you want to be. Pick an in-between brand (Dewalt, Ryobi, Cobalt) and stick with it. This way you have moderate tools that use the same battery system. If there is a specific tool or tools that you use excessively, wait for those to die, then replace them with a better alternative. My Ryobi set is about 5 years old, and those tools are still going strong. I bought couple additional tools to get the better batteries, but other than that, I don't see myself buying anything more expensive at this point. Hopeful this helps.