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- By - Hel1hound123
My dad's brisket didn't turn out, is there any way to salvage it?
A glowing commendation for all to see
- By - jaczk5
DBelariean
A glowing commendation for all to see
I don't see it as being too close, I see it is as losing adhesion in those spots.
It could also be a dirty nozzle, like some print residue/buildup making small blobs thst catches but not enough to rip the whole bead off
Longest “ holy shit…. Welp not doing that” was 6 days 20 hrs and 15 mins
When in doubt….. roll a D20
I would recommend the firmware from Chris at Kersey Fabrications on YouTube, he’s worked with Marlin to compile firmware that is both Board and Printer specific
Thanks!! But it looks like I need to replace the screen to make it work. Is that correct or is there a workaround
It can be connected with the stock display, I havnt done it but I assume you can. I would recommend the TFT-35 E3v3 display, cause touch screen is awesome. The one down side is you will need to print a display adapter(dosent fit in the metal stock case) or an entirely new electronics case (I’ve done the new electronics)
Literally nothing else…. 100 guardsmen with flashlights can barely stop a wet paper bag
Found the marine player
Hell yea…. Iron Hands and Ad Mech!
Just paint it blue, cause thats where smurfs belong
Before the Internet, I'd spend all day outside. When we got our first computer & AOL dial up, I was glued to games all day. 90's StarCraft FTW!
You have not enough pylons
90s kids grew up with things beat into us like “standards” and “ respect for others” and generally “ being a decent fucking human being”
Saving the city from the horde of Zombies. A necromancer has to get spell mats somewhere
?
It’s currently -41c where I live, so it’s cold enough that hell froze over. Ain’t gonna be smokin this christmas
I'm going to guess Alberta or Saskatchewan? I'm in Edmonton and it's -38 this morning. Fortunately, it will be -12 on Sunday so I can still do my rotisserie prime rib.
Actually south of Lethbridge, so yea Alberta Beef all the way
Yep, as I mentioned above, it only works with 2 wires plugged in to z endstop. Aurora tech explains this in the skr mini board review video
Teaching Tech also mentioned that this solution works too
Fuck the Smurf’s….. go do ya damn Taxes Gorillaman….. Iron Hands for life!
Yes it’s ment as a joke.
I'm thinking you guys are right. Unsure how to fix it. I've double checked all the screws they seem fine. The belt doesn't seem to get any resistance even after trying at different Z heights.
Also check to see if your hotend has loosened too, not the nozz but the heatsink mounting
AWACS Forecaster talking control of battlesphere, stand by for further takings”
“Thunderhead this is Razgriz-3 Rodger that “
Chopper was a real one
But chopper ain’t here…
I had this same issue, it's not the BL touch but an issue in the firmware on newer units. I fixed the issue by getting a Sonic Pad. In theory reloading the firmware might fix it but I didn't have patience for this.
Or you know, just flash new firmware…..
Endstop switch. You’ll get the whole unit not just the metal spring, but this works fine with out it
Try a firmware flash, might solve a lot of problems, some times the factory loaded firmware has issues because it was loaded on before final assembly and bug fixes havnt been applied
Brisket pizza is a good option too
As far as selecting the same start point, I don’t believe it can happen,,how ever you can try to do something called”z seam location” hidden in a corner or smart location rather than random and it will do something along those lines, but I’m not positive
Smokin is labor of love, pellets are easy.
If your looking to upgrade, the BTT skr mini E3 v2 (or3) with the TFT 35 E3 V3 display are a solid option. 90% of all the connections are plug and play, plus it adds some baby stepping for getting that perfect first layer. The display is nice because of the option between a touchscreen (which you can customize) and Marlin display (found on stock Ender 3s)
I would suggest Printer Mods XChange or something along those likes like the WhamBam Mutant. They are handy if you have troubles with the hot end and allows for specialized print heads (and other tools). I would also recommend either the BTT skr mini e3 v2(or v3) with the TFT 35 E3 v3 touchscreen. Really nice bits of kit for silent steppers and must more useable interface than stock.
Do you have a link for stock e5p with e3v3 mainboard and tft 35 screen please? Sorry i know the question is treated in other post, but i'm starting with 3d print and don't understand all technical english.
Check this out!
Linear rails are a solid choice, for higher speed printing, and you could also look into turning it into CoreXY (think Voron clone) for high speed printing
Im running a BTT tft35 on my e5pro and am intending to use it as my klipper screen also.
I have the TFT 35 E3 v3, on my 5+, it’s a larger screen like what you see on Ender 3s, if you get this one, better print a mount or something, cause it don’t fit in the stock case.
Also if you want firmware, Try Kris from Kersey Fabrications, he’s got the 5+ and just launched some new firmware for it
Firmware for printer operation goes on Micro sd card into the main board, display firmware goes on std sd card and into the display
Check your connection speed under settings, and change your baud rate on your system, I’ve experienced that because the screen takes a serial connection as well as your printer connection it’s a simple fix really.
It’s what ever your Public IP address is, go to your computer and type “what’s my ip” now you’ll need to set up port forwarding in your router aswell