Not enough supports before anything else. Remember as this thing prints there are "slices" where a good portion of the model is just out in space. Most of the supports you have in there never actually connect with the model until very close to the end of that local section's print time. There are large areas that are unsupported that are building in the meantime.
The camera requires Chitubox. I'd bet money that means it's functionality is locked behind their "pro" subscription meaning the real cost of ownership is dependent on how long you intend to use it for...
They gave licenses to Voxeldance Tango so there is zero reason to expect this. If anything I would expect Elegoo to subsidize a special version of Chitubox for their customers.
The way they are marketing this kind of makes me think a lot of these benefits are add-ons and we haven't seen that cost model yet. The being so low is to drive attention on how it's more accessible than the S3U.
Second on the branching comment. Where they start to get tall put connections between supports so they brace each other. This increases stiffness and makes sure the print stays located during the hole print. Don't be afraid to add buttresses on what are the outer most supports too.
Honestly I just bought a full-face respirator with a large visor and that provides splash protection for the eyes in addition to particle and vapor filtration. It's actually pretty comfortable to wear once seated properly and provides a lot of assurance that in no way am I getting anything in my eyes.
Ah yeah sorry. I'm using Saturn 3 Ultra and it's my first venture into 3D printing at least at home. These parts were printed at .020mm layer height and tweaked settings for Siraya Tech Fast resin.
Yes and no. The wider carbody doesn't really warp but the thin gusseted stanchions on the ends are proving difficult to keep straight and or not break. I'm experimenting with designed-in supports and incomplete curing to separate the body from the rest of the supports. A finish cure then locks everything stiff. There are designed holes for grab irons that complicate it all but I don't want to compromise so taking my time figuring it out.
No OP but I attempted to photograph the eclipse with nicer...but relatively old camera gear. You either manually adjust or allow the camera to automatically adjust light exposure on the sensor. More light is a brighter photo over all, less light is dimmer. It's called white balance. Depending on how big your lens aperture can be this results in various contrast and colors. Also depends on where you "meter" that balance. Some choose to meter a single subject dead center of the photo, others sample the wider photo. More advanced cameras have ways of figuring out best white balance.
My original Saturn is three years old and still prints like a champ. The nerve of these people. "I cross threaded a screw from my own negligence and the company should be at fault, do not recommend."
Definitely wasn't negligent when mine got stuck. My machine is still spotless after 6 months of use. Did aerospace precision gage design for seven years, and way more complicated stuff now. Never boogered a bolt or screw like that.
Im currently having the same issue. I emailed elegoo 4 days ago and no reply. I was hoping they would replace my printer but looking at the comments, most likely not. I am hesitant to start drilling..
Remove the deck from the base and drill from the back side. The tapped hole is a through-hole but isn't tapped the full depth of the hole. Instead there is a relief in the hole which I found to be an excellent pilot for drilling out the broken off screw stud. Take the screen out if you feel afraid of breaking it. I didn't find it that hard to take apart once I figured out their assembly methodology.
Oh that's a good idea...hmm I might implement that if I take it apart again. And yeah, seemed like a design flaw to me, really pissed me off when I opened it up and saw what had happened
You don't need to take it apart. Just swap both the screws for a set of #4 2.5mm threaded studs and thumb nuts each. When you want to remove the vat just take each nut off leaving the studs in place.
Yeah in CAD using prototype schematics and reference photos. The model is parametric so I'm able to make adjustments for assembly tolerance and everything updates nicely. At some point when it's all de-bugged and all the detail is done I'll make copies and change things for all the different variations that could exist.
Do you sell these? Also, tangently related, I'm having trouble finding HO models besides modelrailroad3d on cgtrader. Do you guys have any other favourites?
I do my own CAD work and am currently optimizing my home-brew model for printing. I eventually would like to sell the prints, still debating with myself on selling.stl's. I intend to keep the native CAD to myself for a variety of reasons.
Currently trying to dial it in on my project. For me it's a matter of not needing to drill a lot of holes when I want to build many copies of a single print. The success comes from playing with specific holes on the scale of thousandths of an inch keeping in mind their planned orientation. Can't really measure but smallest I've gotten so far is .015"-.020" consistently.
I'm not sure if it's your exact problem but for me a recent similar issue on a loaded up build plate was solved by demanding light off delay for both lifting and retracting stages.
Thanks for the tip. Was going for the trays for the finishing process, haven’t thought about the pegboard. That might be useful. All 3 enclosures have a fan. The top enclosures have a vent on the top that I can close.
Your setup is pretty cool, very similar to what I want to do also. Only big difference I would do is filter the air coming ingested into the enclosure since you will be sucking in dust along with that air making the enclosure even more dirty. I would also suggest a way of sealing that intake so you can turn the fan off...
As a counterpoint to using vat clean setting, purchase a silicone squeegee or spatula specially for printing use. While the vat cleaning function absolutely does serve a purpose it shouldn't be run every time you print because that would be wildly wasteful and unnecessary. Plus it's not foolproof. Since most users choose an opaque resin that also conceals the vat film you can't visually check for defects before the next print. I use a silicone spatula to feel the vat film checking if irregularities exist. You'll notice even small inconstancies that don't impact printing.
I'm going to give a different...but not scary answer. See a dermatologist. The immune system is funky, and you may have some persistent dermititis brought about by irritation from the resin and your immune system never turned off at that area. I had a similar thing years ago after going through some weeds that made my shin itch for years sometimes uncontrollably. Finally brought it up with a dermatologist who essentially just said "yep that happens" and prescribed a topical steroid which cleared it up after a few weeks.
Not sure I understand your question all the way but by "test" I mean an actual model I want to make that I know probably won't be usable on the first print. Some people are pretty dogmatic about calibration test articles and I think they can be a good diagnostic but your settings will depend heavily on what's important in the actual model you want to create.
If you haven't already download the siraya tech settings for your printer from their webpage. It's a good starting place. From there you will probably have to make some minor adjustments based on what defects you get on a test print. For instance I found the default exposure time way too long for the fine details I was attempting to print with one of their resins. Dialing that exposure back to fix the UV bleed around each layer being cured.
$450 for the Saturn 3 Ultra is less than the sale price I bought mine for 6 months ago (at $475). I'm thinking of buying a second at that cost point. The vat screws and tapped holes are poorly made and I recommend replacing them with threaded studs and thumb nuts but otherwise my machine has worked very well printing HO scale model railroad things like 7" x 2" rail cars and the sort. Print errors are usually from my oversight and easily fixed next attempt and I usually try to load up the plate when printing a tall model since it's resin cost only.
Depends on you and how you want to work throughout life. Companies downsized their CAD and drafting resources during covid and with that a lot of experienced people simply retired leaving industry wide voids in skill. If you feel like you could do PDE related work for the rest of your life the job security is probably better than most generic MEs. That comes with just being content with working on other people's design initiatives. Your overall input will be fairly constrained and your compensation likely matches. That means you do close to one thing and do it well and can find creative outlets outside of work...and probably find it easier to set work-life boundaries.
Not enough supports before anything else. Remember as this thing prints there are "slices" where a good portion of the model is just out in space. Most of the supports you have in there never actually connect with the model until very close to the end of that local section's print time. There are large areas that are unsupported that are building in the meantime.
How much light off time do you use?Â
Tried 1 and 2 seconds. 1 seemed sufficient for me. .020 layer height on S3Us with Siraya Tech Fast.
Some of the possible add ons are the ai camera which might add around $50 to the model
The camera requires Chitubox. I'd bet money that means it's functionality is locked behind their "pro" subscription meaning the real cost of ownership is dependent on how long you intend to use it for...
They gave licenses to Voxeldance Tango so there is zero reason to expect this. If anything I would expect Elegoo to subsidize a special version of Chitubox for their customers.
Their posts specifically mentions Chitubox for camera functionality. No reason not to expect it, that's just as much speculation.
Not in that email but I believe they've said $399 elsewhere
The way they are marketing this kind of makes me think a lot of these benefits are add-ons and we haven't seen that cost model yet. The being so low is to drive attention on how it's more accessible than the S3U.
Second on the branching comment. Where they start to get tall put connections between supports so they brace each other. This increases stiffness and makes sure the print stays located during the hole print. Don't be afraid to add buttresses on what are the outer most supports too.
Honestly I just bought a full-face respirator with a large visor and that provides splash protection for the eyes in addition to particle and vapor filtration. It's actually pretty comfortable to wear once seated properly and provides a lot of assurance that in no way am I getting anything in my eyes.
Something that big and subject to scrutiny I would make a mold of the printed component and cast it in a clear material.
What printer do you use? The resolution is impressive
Ah yeah sorry. I'm using Saturn 3 Ultra and it's my first venture into 3D printing at least at home. These parts were printed at .020mm layer height and tweaked settings for Siraya Tech Fast resin.
Did you have any issues with warping during the curing process?
Yes and no. The wider carbody doesn't really warp but the thin gusseted stanchions on the ends are proving difficult to keep straight and or not break. I'm experimenting with designed-in supports and incomplete curing to separate the body from the rest of the supports. A finish cure then locks everything stiff. There are designed holes for grab irons that complicate it all but I don't want to compromise so taking my time figuring it out.
I’m sorry for a really stupid question, but I want to know:
No OP but I attempted to photograph the eclipse with nicer...but relatively old camera gear. You either manually adjust or allow the camera to automatically adjust light exposure on the sensor. More light is a brighter photo over all, less light is dimmer. It's called white balance. Depending on how big your lens aperture can be this results in various contrast and colors. Also depends on where you "meter" that balance. Some choose to meter a single subject dead center of the photo, others sample the wider photo. More advanced cameras have ways of figuring out best white balance.
Your video clips are always fun to watch. What is the cutting tool you are using when cleaning up the arm sockets?
Hi, thank you. Yes that is the Sonic Saber, ultrasonic knife, works wonders when removing supports
Thank you!
Yeahhhhh I think I got the Baily beads too but can't pull them up in darkroom until I get home in a few days.
My original Saturn is three years old and still prints like a champ. The nerve of these people. "I cross threaded a screw from my own negligence and the company should be at fault, do not recommend."
Definitely wasn't negligent when mine got stuck. My machine is still spotless after 6 months of use. Did aerospace precision gage design for seven years, and way more complicated stuff now. Never boogered a bolt or screw like that.
Im currently having the same issue. I emailed elegoo 4 days ago and no reply. I was hoping they would replace my printer but looking at the comments, most likely not. I am hesitant to start drilling..
Remove the deck from the base and drill from the back side. The tapped hole is a through-hole but isn't tapped the full depth of the hole. Instead there is a relief in the hole which I found to be an excellent pilot for drilling out the broken off screw stud. Take the screen out if you feel afraid of breaking it. I didn't find it that hard to take apart once I figured out their assembly methodology.
Oh that's a good idea...hmm I might implement that if I take it apart again. And yeah, seemed like a design flaw to me, really pissed me off when I opened it up and saw what had happened
You don't need to take it apart. Just swap both the screws for a set of #4 2.5mm threaded studs and thumb nuts each. When you want to remove the vat just take each nut off leaving the studs in place.
Looks very nice. Did you model it yourself?
Yeah in CAD using prototype schematics and reference photos. The model is parametric so I'm able to make adjustments for assembly tolerance and everything updates nicely. At some point when it's all de-bugged and all the detail is done I'll make copies and change things for all the different variations that could exist.
Do you sell these? Also, tangently related, I'm having trouble finding HO models besides modelrailroad3d on cgtrader. Do you guys have any other favourites?
I do my own CAD work and am currently optimizing my home-brew model for printing. I eventually would like to sell the prints, still debating with myself on selling.stl's. I intend to keep the native CAD to myself for a variety of reasons.
I dont have a screenshot, but here it is on the build plate after the print.
A lot of changes are likely needed. Leveraging learnings from my model that had similar issues that is large and has thin-walls...
Currently trying to dial it in on my project. For me it's a matter of not needing to drill a lot of holes when I want to build many copies of a single print. The success comes from playing with specific holes on the scale of thousandths of an inch keeping in mind their planned orientation. Can't really measure but smallest I've gotten so far is .015"-.020" consistently.
I'm not sure if it's your exact problem but for me a recent similar issue on a loaded up build plate was solved by demanding light off delay for both lifting and retracting stages.
Thanks for the tip. Was going for the trays for the finishing process, haven’t thought about the pegboard. That might be useful. All 3 enclosures have a fan. The top enclosures have a vent on the top that I can close.
Your setup is pretty cool, very similar to what I want to do also. Only big difference I would do is filter the air coming ingested into the enclosure since you will be sucking in dust along with that air making the enclosure even more dirty. I would also suggest a way of sealing that intake so you can turn the fan off...
I'll be honest, I'm so new at this I didn't even realize there was a clean vat function. Is there a recommended tutorial for that?
As a counterpoint to using vat clean setting, purchase a silicone squeegee or spatula specially for printing use. While the vat cleaning function absolutely does serve a purpose it shouldn't be run every time you print because that would be wildly wasteful and unnecessary. Plus it's not foolproof. Since most users choose an opaque resin that also conceals the vat film you can't visually check for defects before the next print. I use a silicone spatula to feel the vat film checking if irregularities exist. You'll notice even small inconstancies that don't impact printing.
I'm going to give a different...but not scary answer. See a dermatologist. The immune system is funky, and you may have some persistent dermititis brought about by irritation from the resin and your immune system never turned off at that area. I had a similar thing years ago after going through some weeds that made my shin itch for years sometimes uncontrollably. Finally brought it up with a dermatologist who essentially just said "yep that happens" and prescribed a topical steroid which cleared it up after a few weeks.
What part of the test did you use to address that?
Not sure I understand your question all the way but by "test" I mean an actual model I want to make that I know probably won't be usable on the first print. Some people are pretty dogmatic about calibration test articles and I think they can be a good diagnostic but your settings will depend heavily on what's important in the actual model you want to create.
If you haven't already download the siraya tech settings for your printer from their webpage. It's a good starting place. From there you will probably have to make some minor adjustments based on what defects you get on a test print. For instance I found the default exposure time way too long for the fine details I was attempting to print with one of their resins. Dialing that exposure back to fix the UV bleed around each layer being cured.
$450 for the Saturn 3 Ultra is less than the sale price I bought mine for 6 months ago (at $475). I'm thinking of buying a second at that cost point. The vat screws and tapped holes are poorly made and I recommend replacing them with threaded studs and thumb nuts but otherwise my machine has worked very well printing HO scale model railroad things like 7" x 2" rail cars and the sort. Print errors are usually from my oversight and easily fixed next attempt and I usually try to load up the plate when printing a tall model since it's resin cost only.
Quite the opposite, this appears over-exposed. Try dialing it by taking off a few milliseconds at a time.
Looks like actual shale rock broken up fairly finely.
Ignore the other guy OP...a hole in the film requires the film be replaced.
Depends on you and how you want to work throughout life. Companies downsized their CAD and drafting resources during covid and with that a lot of experienced people simply retired leaving industry wide voids in skill. If you feel like you could do PDE related work for the rest of your life the job security is probably better than most generic MEs. That comes with just being content with working on other people's design initiatives. Your overall input will be fairly constrained and your compensation likely matches. That means you do close to one thing and do it well and can find creative outlets outside of work...and probably find it easier to set work-life boundaries.